Photography Secrets

2007-08-26T05:32:00.000-07:00

35 rules of good potraits

Rule # 1. No Sleeveless Clothing in The Head and Shoulders Portrait. I took the image on the left, cloned her blouse several times in order to cover her right upper arm. Note the difference as to where your eye is drawn when you view the image. In a portrait the first thing you should see is the face.

Rule # 2. "No shorts in group portraiture." That is because our eyes are attracted to bare skin, and that is why the ONLY bare skin that should show in PORTRAITURE is the face. Remember, the FACE is what portraiture is all about.

3. Avoid Bright Colors and Bold Patterns in Clothing. The idea of a portrait is to see the face of the subject. Brightly colored clothing and bold patterns draw the eye away from the subject's face. (This is especially true in the head and shoulders portrait.)

4. Avoid Football Shoulders-The body should not be turned straight to the camera.

5. Solid Pyramidal Base - The body should not be turned 90 degrees away from the camera. 45 degrees is usually the ideal angle for the head and shoulders portrait. Posing someone at a 90 degree angle to the camera does not allow the head to appear to have proper support. After posing the subject at a 45 degree angle, bring the arms out to form the sides of the pyramid.

Lastly, Sit Tall- (Rule 7) Do not allow your subject to slump over or get round shouldered.

Rule # 6, Correct Posing Stool Height- I have found that a 24 inch tall stepladder works wonderfully as a posing stool for nearly all of my traditional head shots, provided my subject is not very overweight. For the overweight subject use a taller stool to allow their paunch to drop. I added a wider top rung (the seat) to the wooden ladder because most people's buns are wider than 4 inches!

In the image I posted below, you can see my modified stepladder. It also shows how raising the leg closest to the camera will tilt the torso (and the shoulders) slightly away from the camera, which happens to be Rule 9. This rule applies to females only.

9. (Females) Lean Slightly Away From The Camera. I also place a small wooden wedge under the buttock closest to the camera. This will keep the shoulder that is closest to the camera higher than the other one, but will still allow the subject to relax. I added "sides" to my widened top rung with slots on both sides for the wedge to fit into.

Rule 8. Lean Forward Slightly-"Over the belt buckle." This eliminates the static straight up and down look and will give a feeling of movement and motion to the portrait.

Rule 10. Project The Chin - Especially if your subject has a full or double chin. By projecting the chin out toward the camera and using a slightly higher camera position the double chin can be nearly eliminated. Photoshop can finish the rest!

11. Proper Head Tilt- Never tip a man’s head to the high (feminine) shoulder as he will look feminine. Women's heads can be tipped toward either shoulder, but the feminine shoulder is more appealing.

Rule # 12. Proper Eye Direction-Generally speaking, in males the eyes should follow the direction of the nose. For females there should be slightly more whites of the eyes on one side than on the other. Rule 12a. The eyes should never be turned so far in their sockets that there is no white area on one side. A slightly higher camera angle will give more whites at the bottom than at the top which is more appealing in images of young females. In the image below the subject is staring up into space. Some wise sage once said; "The eyes are the windows to the soul." This is not to say that every image must have the subject looking directly at the lens, but it seems most people like images that the subject is looking at the camera (them) and sales data will bear this out to be true.

Rule 13. Proper Camera Height - Generally speaking, the camera lens should be at about eye level for head and shoulders portraits, chin level to chest level for ¾ length and chest level to waist level for full length portraits. An even lower camera height for heavy set brides, that are posed standing, will make her appear taller and more "regal."

This rule is perhaps the one I break most often. Just as I will not tilt the head of a 60 year old female as much as I will of a 16 year old female, I also don't usually stand on a step ladder or stool to photograph a 60 year old woman, but I do for a girls high school senior portrait. A higher camera position in head and shoulders portraits of high school seniors will give their eyes a more "glamourous" look. If the 60 year old woman wants to look glamourous, I will of course use a high camera position (or if she has a double chin) it all depends of the final use of the image.

In the image below, I broke rule 13. I was on a step ladder about nine feet above the subject in the second image and at ground level for the first image. Note how much thinner she appears in the second image. This seems to work best for subjects seated on the floor.

Rule 14. Use The 1-2-2 or The 1-3-2 Posing Technique. Males look best with the 1-2-2. Females look best with the 1-3-2 technique. For a complete run down and additional information on this technique see my posting in this tutorial sub-forum entitled The 1-2-3 Posing Technique. The images below shows both.

Rule 15. Avoid Flat Lighting. Portraits usually look best with one side brighter than the other side. When the shadow side of the face is closest to the lens it is called short lighting. Short lighting will make the face appear narrower and more slender. If the shadow is on the side opposite of the lens it is called broad lighting. Broad lighting will make the face appear wider and heavier. Flat lighting is where there are no shadows on the face at all. On camera flash will give you flat lighting. In the image below, the flat lit image was lit with my home made ring light, the other with a 24 x 32 inch softbox with louvers at camera right.

Rule 16. Watch the Nose and Cheek Line-The face should not be turned so far away from the camera that the nose will break or nearly break the far cheek line. This will make the nose look large. 16 a. The far eye should either been seen completely or not be seen at all, but one should never photograph the face so that only 1/2 of the far eye shows. Note that this pose will also cause the subject's eyes to have too much white on one side of the eye as opposed to the other side of the eye (a violation of rule 12.)

Rule 17. Avoid Clutter - Simplicity is usually best! Too many props in an image or a busy, sharply focused or brightly lit background will create confusion for the eye.

17 a. Busy clothing will create confusion for the eye. The eye should immediately be drawn and rest upon the subject. Using a telephoto lens with a large aperture will give you short depth of field which will blur the background.

Rule 18. Crop Between The Joints, Not At them. Cropping at a joint makes the subject appear amputated. Several months ago, I critiqued an image on the 'net that broke this rule and the image maker responded that he sees "amputated" limbs in fashion magazines all the time. I told him he needs to keep two things in mind. 1. He was seeing the image after the art director of the magazine had cropped the image to fit the space allowed in the magazine, and these rules are mainly for the portrait photographer.

Rule 19. Watch Recessed Cheek Line with Glasses. I usually have the subject obtain empty eyeglass frames which will solve the problem immediately. Otherwise you may have sacrifice good lighting and turn the head straight toward the camera.

Rule 20. Don’t Overuse Hair and Kicker Lights-The hair light should kiss the hair, not blast it. Same for the kicker lights.

Rule 21. If It Bends, Bend It-This rule is perhaps the single most important rule. 21 a. Wherever there is a joint, “break” it. Combining these rules along with Rule 8 (Lean the body over the belt buckle, Rule 9 Lean slightly away from the camera Rule 31 If the subject has two of them make them different and lastly Rule 32 (A general rule) Avoid 90 Degree Arms will create a very dynamic image devoid of any staticness. These rules are basically true whether the pose is a head and shoulders pose or a full length seated pose.

Note in the posted image nothing is straight (other than her wrists) or straight up and down. She is at a 45 degree angle to the camera, leaning back, her hips are canted, her shoulders are slightly tipped, her head is tilted, her back leg is bent, both elbows are bent, all of her fingers are curled and even her eyes are not straight in their sockets (Rule 12.) All of this bending, leaning, tilting, twisting and turning also helps in following Rule 31, If The Subject Has Two of Them, Make Them Different. Note her hands are not at the same height nor are they across from one another, her elbows are at different heights, her knees (even though you can't see them) are at two different heights.

Rule 22. Don’t Stack The Hands or Clasp Them Together-Seperate them and place them apart and between the joints. Hide the rear hand if possible in group portraits. I've posted three images showing how this rule was broken three different ways.

Rule 23. Subdue the Near hand-The hand that is nearest to the lens will appear larger than what it actually is. 23 a. Don't project the hands toward the lens and keep them within the range of focus. 23 b. Generally speaking, if the hand is above the subject's waist, the fingers should be directed upwards. If below the waist, the fingers should be directed down. The little finger side of the hand photograph's best. I will post an image that does NOT break this rule.

Rule 24. Don’t Photograph The Back of Women's Hands. The sides are much more graceful than the flat of the hand. Fists are masculine, open hands are feminine. Note how much more graceful the edges of the hands of the young lady in the second image looks when compared to the flat back of the hand in the first image.

Rule 25. Place the Weight on the Back Foot- and shift the hips (with standing poses.) This will put the hips and shoulders at a pleasing angle. Ask the subject to point her foot that is nearest to the camera toward the camera and shift her weight to the back hip. This means the front leg and foot will have no weight on it. She should then bend her knee slightly toward the other leg. This will give a pleasing “S” curve to her body.

Rule 26. (Couples Portraiture) Do Not Photograph Two Heads at the Same Height- Ideally the eyes of the shorter subject (usually the female) should be at the same height as the mouth of the taller subject.

Rule 27. (Couples or Group Portraiture) Have No Head Directly Above Another-All heads should not only be at different heights but also not directly above another subject.

Rule 28. Avoid Crotch Shots-Raising the leg that is closest to the camera in a standing pose will prevent shooting into the subject’s crotch. In groups, turning the subject's body to a 45 degree angle and keeping the legs together should prevent shooting into the crotch. This rule has been "relaxed" in the last decade or so for high school senior images, especially for boys and to a somewhat lesser extent for gals.

Rule 30. If The Subject Has Two of Them, Make Them Different. Feet, knees, arms, hands and elbows at different levels are more interesting than when placed side by side. Note in the posted image that everything that can be made different has been made different. His hips are not level, his shoulders are not level, his head is tipped to the masculine shoulder, he is leaning slightly, his knees, feet, arms, hands and elbows are not side by side but are placed at different and multiple levels. Sameness leads to boringness in a photographic image.

Rule 31. Avoid "90 Degree" Arms (a general rule for females.) Don Blair called these arms "Carpenter's T square arms."
Gently flowing lines usually look best in portraits of women.

Rule 32. Don't Shoot Into a Bare Armpit. Either cover it with something or raise the opposite arm and bring the near arm down. I've seen bare armpits covered with the young lady's long hair, flowers, toul, strips of cloth, and small props. With long sleeved clothing shooting into an armpit is usually not a problem. In the example image I covered one with her long hair, and I heavily retouched the other.

Rule 33. (Group Portraiture) Have the subjects at either end of the image face in toward the center. This will keep the viewers attention on the subjects. I also use this technique in my high school senior foilios. The images on the left side of the folio all face to the right and those on the right face left. The master painters of the Rennaissance used this technique to keep the viewers attention within the painting.

Rule 34. Use A Telephoto Lens- Short telephoto lenses will prevent foreshortening, which is where objects nearest the lens will appear larger than objects farther away. Use of a short telephoto lens in group portraiture will make all the faces approximately the same size regardless of whether they are in the front row or the rear row. (I used a short telephoto lens in the family image above in rule 33.)

Rule 35. Avoid Posing A Bride Kneeling on the Floor. The wedding gown is designed to look "correct" and usually flows beautifully (and therefore photographs best) when the bride is standing. A bride seated on a posing stool is of course perfectly acceptable.

2006-01-01T02:33:00.000-08:00

Photographing fireworks

Fireworks are fantastic to see in photos but are really hard to shoot well. There are a number of techniques that can allow you to take some spectacular shots of fireworks.

Plan in advance. Make sure you have an unobstructed view of the fireworks by arriving well before the show begins. Find a place away from light sources (signs, lamps, car lights) and where people won't walk in front of you. Finally, make sure you're upwind of the fireworks display. Fireworks create smoke that will obscure the display if the smoke is between you and the explosions. On the other hand, smoke behind the explosions will reflect the light and make a better shot.

Use a Tripod. This is essential for fireworks photography as most of your exposure times will be between 1 and 15 seconds.

If you don't have a tripod handy, you will get some camera movement. You can counter this and create a special effect by exaggerating the movement by moving the camera in a circular motion, or zooming in.

For best effect, you really need a camera where you can control the shutter speed and the aperture. Some cheaper P&S cameras may not allow you to get the best results, but it's always worth trying to see how you go.

Use long exposure times (keep the shutter open for a long time). You will want to capture both the initial explosion as well as the trails left behind by the burning particles. Anywhere from just under a second to more than 15 seconds will work. Try a few different options and use what's best.

If the sky is black, you can leave the shutter open for a long time and wait for the right firework to be in your viewfinder. Alternatively, you can cover the lens with a piece of black cardboard until the right firework arrives.

If you can't control the shutter speed, take LOTS of shots. Use Continuous mode to keep the camera shooting. Some of the shots won't work, but you should get 3 or 4 good shots for the night.

Use a Cable Release or remote control. This is a button on a lead that allows you to tell the camera to take the shot without moving the camera itself. If you use the shutter release on the camera, you can wobble the camera too much and produce unwanted effects. If you don't have a cable release, you can use the timer function of the camera so it takes the shot a few seconds after you press the button. Note you'll need to pre-empt the firework so the camera shutter is open at the correct time.

Focus. Most of the time all fireworks will be the same distance from you, so you can use the same focus setting on your camera for the whole show. Use the first few fireworks to set the focus and set your camera to use that for future shots. This will save a second or two in focus time for each image. If your camera can't preset focus, set it to Landscape Mode.

Turn off the flash. If you can't turn it off, try covering it with something like tape.

If you want full-framed shots, you should use a telephoto lens. Keep your tripod head loose and follow the tracer with your viewfinder. Release the shutter when it explodes. To include most of the fireworks in a scene, the regular lens is fine. Zoom in enough to compose all your fireworks.

Make sure there are no unwanted buildings or lights in frame that will distract from the final shot.

Merge the fireworks together using Image Manipulation software. It's a lot easier to get an image with lots of fireworks if you take lots of images separately and merge them together afterwards on a computer. You can even make some fireworks appear smaller or larger to make a more balanced and pleasing composition. The quickest way to merge firework images is to use Photoshop and the "Screen" layer merge option.

Every situation is unique so the best advice is to go to a place that regularly runs fireworks shows and get lots of practice.

Night scenes are some of the most difficult to shoot and get right in digital photography. My book, "Digital Photo Secrets" has not only these fireworks tips, but lots of other techniques to help you with other difficult lighting settings such as at sunset or at night.

2005-11-30T22:55:00.000-08:00

Stop Blurry Images

It's one of the biggest problems that can occur with cameras - Blurry Images. Angela, a tips subscriber, emailed me last week asking if her camera was working OK. She had taken a lot of shots of her daughter's 21st birthday, and they were all blurry.

Have you taken shots like this before? Blurry images are usually a by-product of taking a shot using your camera's auto mode, but without using the flash when there is low light (such as when you are indoors or at night).

An even bigger problem for Angela was that she did not know about the blurry images until she uploaded the images to her computer a few days later. She had been using the LCD screen but didn't realise that because it's so small, it won't show if any images are blurry.

Why does the image turn out blurry?
Well, technical reason is that the camera moved while the shutter was open. In low light the shutter needs to be open for longer so the camera gets enough light to properly expose the shot. That's why holding your camera in your hand works OK in daylight - because they're more light and the shutter is open for less time.

How do I fix it?
While it's impossible to fix an already blurry image, there are a number of ways to ensure future images are ultra sharp - each with it's benefits and disadvantages.
1. Turn on the flash! Modern cameras warn you if they think a flash should be used - usually by flashing a hand symbol (which basically says you'll get a blurry image if you take the shot while holding the camera in your hand). A flash will provide enough light for the camera to use a quick shutter speed and stop the blurriness. The disadvantage of using a flash is the flash light 'dies away' quickly, so only the subjects close to the camera are fully lit. The background will be very dark.

2. Use a tripod. This will steady the camera while the shutter is open. When shooting people, you also need to ask them to be still while the shutter is open. You also need to be aware that your finger depressing the shutter button will shake the camera, so you should use either the timer, or a remote trigger, so the camera is still when the shot is taken. This method works well when you want to take shots of inanimate objects, but not so well when taking shots of people, such as in this photo.

3. Use "Shutter Priority Mode". Some of the more expensive cameras have a shutter priority mode that you can use to override the camera's default shutter settings. Using this mode, increase the shutter speed as far as you can go. The camera will compensate by opening the aperture more (to let in more light) and also increasing the ISO value (so the camera needs less overall light to get an acceptable image). If you use this method, your images may turn out to be too dark, so either take a few shots at different shutter speeds, or increase the EV level to brighten the image. This method also tends to increase the 'noise' in the image.

I also recommend practicing. Practice taking some more indoors shots using each of the tips above. Make a note of which settings you used for which shots, and then check the images on your computer. Note which ones turned out best and use those settings next time you need to take shots in that situation.

Learning how your camera works beforehand can go a long way to ensure photos of your special occasions don't end up in the digital dustbin.

2005-11-03T01:55:00.000-08:00

Nice Shot of Baby - Maybe
by Kenneth Hoffman

When a new addition to the family arrives, the cameras pop out like weeds

in the garden. Unfortunately, most of the pictures, while enjoyed, never quite capture the cuteness of the new baby. Here are some tips to help you do the little darling justice.

First, let me advise you never to use a wide angle lens for a baby picture. The foreshortening of a 28mm focal length lens will be sure to (1) make the baby's nose appear larger, (2) reduce the size of their ears to looking smaller and out of shape, and (3) probably cause an overexposure of the image due to the closeness of the flash to the subject. One the other hand, a short telephoto lens (100mm) will reproduce our angel's features to a normal proportion, all of his (or her) different parts presented in the proper ratio. Even a small distortion of proportion has a definite (and detrimental) effect on the features.

While I'm not excluding taking pictures at night with a flash, I am recommending that you wait for daytime for that wonderful light coming from your window. Turn off the flash or cover it with two layers of white handkerchief. A setting of 200 ISO should be sufficient for a good exposure. The bottom pane is the one with the most photogenic light, so if you can, close off the upper part. Try raising the mattress in the crib so that you can see the baby without looking down. Soft light from the sky or light reflected off clouds produces a three dimensional rounded effect especially flattering to a baby's face. If the room is furnished in dark colors, place a reflecting surface near the baby to fill in the shadow. Use a tripod or other support and shoot away.

Try different angles: a high angle looking down, a position on the opposite side of the crib (turn it around), or even through the bars. Avoid using the macro setting on a zoom lens, since this setting most often incorporates a wide angle focal length. Find the closest distance possible on your short telephoto lens (85mm - 120mm) and stand at that distance. A two diopter close-up attachment lens could halve this distance for super close-ups.

For twins, try to have one sit and one stand. The diagonals produced in the composition introduce a dynamic note to the picture. Important is to have all eyes pointing in the same direction. A squeeze toy helps.

Don't forget the comic possibilities of baby photography. A cold piece of lettuce often produces a variety of quizzical expressions. A slice of lemon brings a riot of surprised and sour looks. A messy finale to a noon time meal is best enjoyed at a distance. Tickling feathers, air blown through a straw or a spray of water from a hidden source can supply an endless source of comical expressions. Before long, you'll have them captured forever in pictures and in your hearts!

Want to know how to take photos in specific situations such as at weddings, at the beach, of lightning, or flowers? Then take a look at my 267 Simple Tips for Sensational Photos book. It's full to the brim with handy tips and techniques for lots of common situations.

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2005-10-20T05:39:00.000-07:00

Digital Camera Modes - Advanced Modes
Digital Photography Bonus Secret
by David Peterson
Once you've mastered shooting with basic modes, try some of the more advanced modes your camera supports. When starting to use these modes, I recommend some experimentation so you get familiar with each mode and how it changes the final photo.
Program Mode
This mode is similar to the Auto function in that the camera does some of the work, but you still have some control over how you want the photo to look. Program mode allows you to select from one of a number of shutter/aperture combinations for a specific exposure. I suggest learning how the different modes affect the shot by setting your camera on a ledge or tripod and shooting a scene with each of the different program modes. Notice how each mode changes what you see with the image.
Aperture Priority / AV Mode
This mode allows you to set the aperture setting for your camera and let your camera choose the appropriate shutter speed. Changing the aperture allows you to control the depth of field in your image - basically so you can choose how much is in focus.
Shutter Priority / Time Priority / TV Mode
Use Shutter Priority when the portrayal of motion is most important. When you want moving objects to blur, choose a slower shutter speed. A fast shutter speed will freeze your subject. The camera will select the appropriate aperture for a correct exposure.
Manual Mode
Here you can choose both the shutter speed and aperture to get just the setting you want. This mode gives you total control over the depth of field, lighting and motion in your images.
Most professionals use Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or Full Manual mode because they provide the most control over the image. All these extra settings do take some learning though, so I recommend trying one mode at a time and see how it affects the images you take.

2005-10-14T07:17:00.000-07:00

Photo Review
by Curtis Routh
Professional reviews of photos are one of the best ways to improve your photographic skills. By studing what works and doesn't work, you learn to shoot more 'winners' yourself.

Curtis Routh has kindly agreed to review the following photos for me. Curtis runs a photography business called LeaveTheCamera.com and his insignts are very valued. Click on the photos to comment on the image, or rate it yourself.

Tired of Waiting by tsiklots

Tired Of Waiting
Overall: This is a very intriguing photograph. I have looked at it...gone away...came back and looked some more. This is the type photo that a great photographer is happy to get and should be in a "How to" B & W manual.
Summary: I cannot find a thing wrong with this photo. From trying to see what is outside, to the loosely hung curtains, to the pajamas he is wearing...to the half loose blinds....to the leather sofa. It's all there! The lighting is very good. There is major light coming in from the front and minor light highlighting his back and the scar on his arm. His little ear barely comes through and looks as if, even though he is sleeping, he could be listening. The black & white medium sets it off even more. This could be early morning or late afternoon. Either works well. I would love to see the original in color.

I give this picture a 9.9. A little more light might have brought out a few more of his features. Very wonderful shot. I like it very much. Congratulations on a great picture!

Up For Air by MikeK

Up For Air
Summary: I love nature shots. Especially in the raw and up close. The colors are very vivid and the detail is a testament to the glass and camera you are using. The depth of field is very good. I really like the scum bubbles in the water (lends to the fact of where they actually live). His eyes are very clear. You can see he is checking you out as much as you are him. Good exposure, great detail, and the colors are really outstanding. The AWB worked well in this shot. The focal point is his eyes. I like it. I like the title, too. Very accurate portrayal of the meaning of the shot. Overall, this is one of the best nature pictures I have seen on the site.
Improvements; The tight crop is great for detail, but it is almost disappointing not to see the rest of his reflection in the water. A little looser shot might have added a complete head reflection in the water. The shiny spot on his nose draws my eyes. I would like to see this shot after softening the bright spot in P.S. or another editing program. One step up in color saturation (P.S. or custom parameter) would have made the green jump off the page. I feel the colors, although very accurate, are a little flat. Contrast is good. Mood is good. Overall I rate this picture at a 9.8 Great job. I know these critters don't sit still very long. I give a 10 for catching the shot!

Daisy Kaimai by maryann

Daisy Kaimai
The setting for this photo is a stark contrast between light and dark. The flower is very prominent in the picture and the blurred, dark background gives a sense of foreboding drama. Kind of like good verses evil. It looks as if a flash were used to highlight the flower. This provides a definite contrast between light and dark as the flash falls off.
Improvements: I think the picture would be more interesting if the background were in focus ( a least a little). It would certainly make it easier to see where this was taken. Looks like it was taken near a pond or lake. Don't discount detail in the background. It is a little out of focus and I feel the flower would have been better served if it were more centered. I love the different light and dark colors. The blue in the center would have made the flower jump off the page. This would have made a happier picture if the white was more predominant than the dark. A little closer zoom would have brought out more detail in the flower. A tripod, if not used, would have worked well in this light.

Overall: I think this a great shot. The flower shines like a brand new dime in a bucket of old pennies. It says there is light, even in the darkness. I like the deep blue color in the center. It adds yet another perception of depth. I feel the overall rating of 8 is right on. Good picture!

Bobo by girdnerg

Bobo
Summary: Very nice photograph. I like the tight crop and the big brown eyes. The little shiner tells of recent boo boo. Nice touch. The lighting is good. Good skin color (a little pink). Flash worked well.
Improvements: I can't tell if that is an arm or leg in the photo. I think just her face would have worked better. Nice contrast between the foreground and background. Digital re-touch to remove the little blemishes off her forehead and nose, along with only her face, would have brought my full attention to the black eye(s). Overall a very nice shot. I give it an 8.5. Beautiful girl. Hope the eye gets well soon. Makes me want to say "ahhh".

Me & Grandpa by girdnerg

Me & Grandpa
Summary: Nice photo. Good light and good contrast between the green water and blue inner tube. I like the rugged forest in the background. Good reflection in the water down low. water gives a sense of motion.
Improvements: I would like to have seen the subjects a little closer to the trees in the back. There is too much to look at between the subjects and the background. The bright sunlight gave way to great color and detail, but it also caused both subjects to squint. Looking away from the light source for a few seconds and then looking back into the frame would have made for more natural facial expressions. I would recommend a half step down on the exposure to prevent the washout on the subjects and water. A polarized filter would have deepened the water and added color overall. I would have recommended a 5.6 aperture setting to darken this shot down a little. Overall I think it is a very good effort in very bright sunlight. I like the picture. Looks like fun. I give this shot a 7 overall.

I know all of this is a lot to think about when capturing the moment, but that can be fixed by taking several shots with varying aperture settings. Click, click, click. Pick the best.

2005-10-07T02:14:00.000-07:00

More on Unusual Angles

Hold your camera at waist height and click while walking around. Some photos will be blurred, but you can usually find some that are very good. This works particularly well in sunlight when walking around a tourist area.

When shooting any subject with a lot of straight lines (like someone on a fence), turn the camera 45 degrees to give a diagonal look to your image that enhances the mood of the picture.

Sometimes the best images need to be taken from unusual locations such as from the top of a building (for a birds eye shot) or right down on the ground. Also point the camera different ways .including straight up or straight down. Don't be afraid to try different angles. Placing your camera at angles of 30 degrees from the horizontal or vertical lines work well.

When finding that great angle, don't worry about looking the fool! Being self-conscious will affect your ability to find great angles, your concentration, and maybe even the quality of your photographs.

You don't need to go to extremes to find a great angle - even standing on a step, or getting down onto one knee can make a lot of difference.

To make small things look large, lie on the ground and hold your camera towards the sky. This will make your small subject look like a giant! This also works well for tall buildings such as lighthouses.

2005-10-07T02:08:00.001-07:00

Digital Camera Modes

-->Most people use the automatic mode of their camera and it takes good shots in most situations. It is often very helpful though to let the camera know what type of shot you're trying to take. This allows the camera to select the best settings for that particular image.
This can be done by changing to a different camera mode. In today's tip, we'll explain each of the different modes, when to use them, and what decisions the camera makes for each mode.

Full Auto / Green Mode
This is the mode that I recommend you start out with. It provides fully automated 'point and shoot' operation. All you need to do is frame the image and press the shutter!
Basic ModesWhen it's time to experiment with other settings, try using the basic modes first. Choose the mode appropriate for the image you want to take, and start shooting!

Landscape Mode
Use Landscape mode to take photos of mountains, scenery or cityscapes. Anytime where the whole image - both the foreground and background - needs to be in focus. Setting Landscape Mode will tell your camera to select a small aperture which will give a large depth of field and ensure the whole image is in focus.

Portrait Mode
Select Portrait mode when you want to take a shot of a person - usually showing their face. The best portraits are where the subject is in full focus, but the background is out of focus, so the camera increases the aperture in this mode to get a small depth of field. This places only the subject in focus.

Sports Mode
Sports mode is perfect for fast action shots. It ensures the camera uses a fast shutter speed so you can take photos of moving subjects without motion blur. Also, on some cameras the continuous shooting mode is enabled so the camera keeps taking shots as long as you depress the shutter.

Macro Mode
Close up shots of flowers, insects and the like require the camera to focus on an object that's really close to the lens. Macro mode provides just that setting by using the macro lens of the camera.

Night Mode
Use Night Mode at night, or at dawn or dusk. This is where you want to make best use of what little light is available. The camera will choose a slow shutter speed and turn off the flash. Try to place your camera on a tripod or keep it steady some other way when using this mode to ensure your images stay sharp.

Beach and Snow
Some cameras provide a "Beach and Snow" mode. This mode is for use when shooting highly reflective scenes - like at the snow. The camera will compensate for the bright scene and ensure the image is exposed correctly.

2005-10-07T02:08:00.000-07:00

2005-10-07T02:06:00.000-07:00

Digital Camera Modes

Most people use the automatic mode of their camera and it takes good shots in most situations. It is often very helpful though to let the camera know what type of shot you're trying to take. This allows the camera to select the best settings for that particular image.

This can be done by changing to a different camera mode. In today's tip, we'll explain each of the different modes, when to use them, and what decisions the camera makes for each mode.

Full Auto / Green Mode

This is the mode that I recommend you start out with. It provides fully automated 'point and shoot' operation. All you need to do is frame the image and press the shutter!

Basic Modes

When it's time to experiment with other settings, try using the basic modes first. Choose the mode appropriate for the image you want to take, and start shooting!

Landscape Mode
	Use Landscape mode to take photos of mountains, scenery or cityscapes. Anytime where the whole image - both the foreground and background - needs to be in focus. Setting Landscape Mode will tell your camera to select a small aperture which will give a large depth of field and ensure the whole image is in focus.
Portrait Mode
	Select Portrait mode when you want to take a shot of a person - usually showing their face. The best portraits are where the subject is in full focus, but the background is out of focus, so the camera increases the aperture in this mode to get a small depth of field. This places only the subject in focus.
Sports Mode
	Sports mode is perfect for fast action shots. It ensures the camera uses a fast shutter speed so you can take photos of moving subjects without motion blur. Also, on some cameras the continuous shooting mode is enabled so the camera keeps taking shots as long as you depress the shutter.
Macro Mode
	Close up shots of flowers, insects and the like require the camera to focus on an object that's really close to the lens. Macro mode provides just that setting by using the macro lens of the camera.
Night Mode
	Use Night Mode at night, or at dawn or dusk. This is where you want to make best use of what little light is available. The camera will choose a slow shutter speed and turn off the flash. Try to place your camera on a tripod or keep it steady some other way when using this mode to ensure your images stay sharp.
Beach and Snow
	Some cameras provide a "Beach and Snow" mode. This mode is for use when shooting highly reflective scenes - like at the snow. The camera will compensate for the bright scene and ensure the image is exposed correctly.

Next Time: We'll delve into the more advanced modes available on the higher end cameras.

2005-10-07T02:01:00.000-07:00

Wedding Photography

Weddings can be a great time for photograph taking. Note the following tips:
Most couples hire a professional photographer, so be careful not to interfere with the professional's work.

Buy some bridal magazines beforehand and look at the photos inside for inspiration.
The bride's dress can overpower the camera, as it's all white. Either the dress looks perfect and the bride's face is too dark, or her face is perfect and the dress has no details. This can be circumvented by using a reflective surface (like a large white card) to direct extra light towards the bride's face. A white wall can achieve the same purpose.

Use different angles. Try zooming in on a kiss, or tilting the camera slightly.

At the Church: Some churches don't allow flash photography. If your camera doesn't work well in low light don't try to take any shots in the church. Instead wait until the happy couple pauses on the church front steps. Plan ahead and find a good location before they exit the church.
Don't just focus on the bride and groom - take photos of the other guests.

At the Reception: Events at the reception include cutting the cake, the first dance and the bouquet toss. Plan ahead so you can be at the right place at the right time - it helps to have a family member alert you when the event is about to start.

"Be prepared" is the motto when shooting weddings! Attend the rehearsal and take note of the sequence of events. If there is no rehearsal, visit the scene of the wedding beforehand and study the lighting and other conditions that will affect your photos. Knowing what to expect will save you lots of time on the day.

When shooting at weddings you want to minimize the distractions of using any manual settings of your camera, but still want great photos. One way to do this is to use your camera's custom white balance feature. Take a white balance reading at the front of the church; inside the church; and in the hallway - whenever the light changes a lot. Use the same reading for all shots at that location. If your camera supports it, you can also 'save' these settings beforehand as index shots and switch back to the appropriate settings when you take the photos.

For interesting shots, try not showing everything in your image - leave some to the imagination. For instance, the bride may have a veil and a headdress etc. Rather than showing these with every picture, cut it away and leave hints every now and then.

2005-10-07T01:59:00.000-07:00

Macro Photography

Macro photography is the art of photographing small objects like flowers and bugs. Here are some tips for fantastic macro photography.

Start to train your eye to see macro opportunities. You'll be surprised at the objects you'll want to capture : Stamps, Paper Clips, Coins, Pins etc. Some of the best subjects are provided by Nature - Flowers, Plants, Bugs and Leaves.

Try getting in really close to everyday objects such as the wood grain of a table, the veins of leaves, the texture of gravel or the worn look of a slippery slide.

Use a flash if there isn't much light - but be careful because at this close range the flash could over expose the subject and image. A 'Ring Flash' unit can help. This clips onto the front of the lens and can give a softer effect.

If your camera has trouble focussing at close range, try moving away a little and use the optical zoom to incease your magnification.

Try purchasing a 'close up lens' that attaches to the end of your camera's filter thread. This is a great alternative if your camera doesn't have an inbuilt macro, but does have a thread to attach filters.

Use a small white card to fill any shadows in the image. Shadows can be a problem if you are shooting in bright sunlight, or using an overhead lamp. Any single light source will cause shadows.

Increase your ISO setting so you can use faster shutter speeds. This will ensure your images will be as sharp and clear as possible. Don't increase your ISO too far as you'll get a very 'noisy' image.

Use a tripod as much as possible to eliminate camera shake and to be sure your camera's focus is right.

Don't use the optical viewfinder. Because of 'parallax', the image you see in the optical viewfinder will not be the same as what the camera sees... Particularly for macro shots.

2005-10-07T01:56:00.000-07:00

Candid Photography

Candid photography is photography that focuses on spontaneity rather than technique. Your subject's focus is not on the camera, but on their current task. So we're not talking about the photo albums full of people looking at the camera and smiling here! Your subjects are un-posed and the shots are unplanned.

Candid photos are usually simple photos without a lot of technical equipment or any time taken 'setting up the shot'. Thus they capture some wonderful 'slices of life'!

Here are some tips for taking candid photos:

Take your camera everywhere you go! Keep alert for candid situations - they can be found everywhere.

Some examples of candid shots: A daydreaming store owner; an elderly man sitting beside you; commuters waiting for a train; two lovers on a park bench about to kiss; a child's delight when feeding ducks; elation of a football supporter when a goal is scored; a city tramp surrounded by clutter; a woman lost in thought staring at the beach.

It's rare to get a second chance with candid photography. When you see an opportunity, grab it!
Don't use complicated lighting techniques for taking your candid shots. Concentrate on the simple and use your camera's automatic features. Technical problems don't matter so much if you have a great candid photo. Most technical problems (like if the image is too dark or too light) can be fixed on your computer.

Set your camera to "ISO 400" so it uses a fast shutter speed. This will help you 'grab' the shot even if you are moving.

The best candid photographers blend into the background so don't be too obvious. Do what everyone else is doing so you fit in with the situation. Then when you see a good candid moment, bring your camera up to your eye.

You don't always need to take the shot with your camera at eye level. Support your camera on your waist when taking the photo. Some luck or experience is needed here to get the framing right.

Use your zoom lens to it's fullest extent so you can keep away from the action while taking your shot. A Telephoto lens is essential if you're going to be a fair way away.

Never take photos of people's backs. Nothing is more boring than a group of people with all backs turned to the camera. It just doesn't work.

Try converting the image to Black and White to get that extra punch and emotion.
People 'doing things' make the best candid photos. Sports players, trades people, farmers and accountants are all excellent examples of subjects with 'things to do'. Try to capture the essence of the person's task. For example, you might capture a plumber concentrating on fixing a leaky pipe.

If you're in a public place, it's usually okay to photograph people. If they object however, you need to stop. If you're not sure, it never hurts to ask permission before hand. Your subject may want to pose, so explain what you saw them doing and ask them to continue as if you weren't there.

Experiment! Sometimes the artistic expression of a candid photo can be limited by you; the photographer. Try different angles, places and scenes. Look at candid photos created by others (they can be found in lots of magazines) for inspiration.

Candid photography is a great way to add some artistic flare to your photos without spending a lot of time with the technical aspects of photography.

2005-10-07T01:52:00.000-07:00

Which File Format Is Best?
Digital Photography Bonus Secretby David Peterson
-->Most modern digital cameras give you a choice of file formats when saving your image. It's very helpful to know the benefits (and disadvantages) of each file format so you can make the best decision on the file format to save your images in.
Why do we need file formats?A standard photo taken with a 4.3 megapixel camera has 4.3 million little pixels, or pieces of information, that comprise the image. Each of those pieces needs to store a red, green and blue color value so the color of the pixel can be recreated by a computer or printer. Each color value records the strength of that color on a scale from 1 to 256.
This is a lot of information! Each pixel needs three bytes to store the three color values, and there are 4.3 million pixels. 4.3 million times 3 is around 13 million bytes, or 13 Megabytes.
If each image took 13 Megabytes of storage, you'd run out of space pretty quickly on your memory card! So the file formats used to save images compress the image down to a smaller, more manageable, size.

JPEGThe JPEG, or JPG format was invented to help make image sizes more manageable. JPEG is the most popular format used in digital cameras today because it's a simple and versatile format, and is supported by all image related software.
JPEG works by compressing the image to a much smaller size at the expense of some image quality. Normally you won't see any difference because the JPEG format looks at the image and removes only the information that it can recreate by looking at adjacent pixels when the image is displayed again.

You can specify the amount of compression with JPEG images. Your camera will usually have a quality setting - low, medium or high. Low quality increases the JPEG compression, and although your images will be smaller, they won't look at good.

Uncompressed TIFFTIFF is another file format popular because while it still compresses the image, it does so in a way to ensure that the full image can always be restored. There's no loss of image quality. It works in the same way as ZIP files on a computer. They are compressed, but you can always get the original file back.

RAWImages stored in RAW format are exactly what the camera 'sees'. There is no processing done by the camera before the image is saved. This is one of the major advantages of RAW.
Remember when I said above that each color value strength is stored on a scale from 1 to 256? Modern cameras can actually detect more than 256 levels of strength. But since the TIFF and JPEG formats don't allow more than that number, the camera throws the extra information away. The RAW format saves these extra strength levels resulting in a better image with more contrast levels.

There's another advantage - the camera doesn't correct for exposure or white balance before it saves in RAW format. Meaning you have ultimate control in manipulating the image in a paint program - so your image looks exactly how you want it to look.
All these advantages come at a cost. RAW images don't use any compression so they are large files and take a long time to store and copy. Also, there is no single RAW standard for all cameras, so you usually will need to use your camera manufacturer's software to read the RAW file.

Which format should I use?While TIFF and RAW do give you superior images, I personally don't think the hassle of much larger file sizes are worth it unless you have a really high end camera and need to produce really large prints. Not only do the images take longer to save, but you need to purchase larger (and more expensive) memory cards; a larger hard drive; and more CDs to back up to.

The JPEG format is the most popular - and it's not hard to see why. It provides a much smaller image size without losing a lot of quality. I recommend using the JPEG format set to high image quality on your own camera.

2005-09-08T03:49:00.000-07:00

Birthday Party Photo Tips

How many birthday party pictures have you seen that are kept just because they are of someone's birthday, not because it is inherently a terrific photograph?

When was the last time you heard anyone exclaim: THIS IS REALLY A GREAT BIRTHDAY PHOTO? Can you say NEVER?

And yet, birthday parties are happening ALL THE TIME. You would think that "practice makes perfect," wouldnt you; but in this case... uh-uh, it apparently doesnt.

So, here we are, with another important birthday party looming on the horizon and not knowing how to improve on past how hum photographs. NOT THIS TIME! Follow the following 11 tips and you will desire to start getting used to being asked to photograph OTHER PEOPLES birthday parties.

Cant-Miss Birthday Party Photo Tips
1) Prepare For the Party
Abraham Lincoln once remarked that if you are going to cut down a tree, spend 90% of your time sharpening the axe. Preparation makes any activity go better. And for birthday parties, you do not want to have to wait until next year to make up for lack of preparation, do you?
So, what should you prepare for?

KNOW THE LOCATION. Whether the party takes place in a home, party room, or amusement park; realize that each location has its own photographic "blueprint." Based on the locations blueprint, prepare beforehand for the correct digital camera settings for white balance, metering mode, and exposure compensation.

2) Know The Obstacles
What is going to be in your way at the birthday party (excluding your drunken brother-in-law)? Are there any fixed columns, hanging plants or lights that desire to be planned around? For example, if there is a fixed object right where the optimal photos should be taken from, consider setting up the main table someplace else. Its much easier to figure this out before the event than getting to the party and realizing that you need to move the room a bit to the left.

3) The Main Table
If using rectangular tables, take the birthday party pictures FACING THE WIDE END OF THE RECTANGLE. When doing this, use the wide angle setting on your camera. If you shoot any birthday photos from the narrow end, use as massive an F-stop number as possible (optimally F-22 or higher). However, even if you do, some of the guests will possibly still be out of focus (hence, the "shoot from the wide end" suggestion).

4) Flash Decisions
Dont automatically assume you should use the cameras flash all the time. If the camera has a hot shoe (this and many other useful terms are defined at http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/compare-digital-camera-features.html ). If it does, consider using a bounce flash or a diffuser.
As a real eye-opener, find out how high your ISO setting can go and see if the resulting photos are not too noisy (digital noise = film grain)

5) Better Safe than Sorry
Take multiple shots of the critical photographs. Consider flash/no flash; different metering modes, and different F-stops. Also, regardless of what you say or do, folks will blink. And, by the way, don't count on spotting mini problems on the tiny camera LCD screen (even on full magnification).

6) The Background
What does the background look like? If it's neutral - use it. If it's ugly, minimize your depth of field (smallest possible F-stop) to blur the background. If you do not write this one down, I can guarantee that you wont remember it for more than 10 seconds once you start taking photos.

7) The LCD Display
AVOID USING THE DISPLAY TO CHECK ANYTHING OTHER THAN IF YOU CUT OFF ANYONE'S HEAD. LCD displays should NOT be used to confirm contrast, color, exposure, or any other critical factors. This is why the computer is needed to evaluate test shots prior to the party. If you are very experienced, you can tell certain things from the histogram, but to be safe - take test shots and examine the results on a computer (or, ideally a printer) way before the actual date of the party.

8) Equipment
Have fully-charged batteries, memory cards, chargers, external flash, lens accessories, and tripod ready.

9) Construct a Birthday Party Pictures List
Jot down MUST HAVE pictures, as well as the ones you would like to capture, if possible. And, whats the good of putting together a list unless you remember to take it to the party AND TO REFER TO IT.

10) Candids
If you are putting together a list, may I suggest including Candids on it. Very often the best birthday party photos will be candids. Since most birthday photos are usually posed, candids take on a top uniqueness.
Candid birthday party photos of sleeping children should always be a top priority. Why? On a purely emotional note, they are always cute, will typically produce a smile for the viewer, and sometimes even get a laugh.

11) Surplus Time
If it's your child's birthday party, they will never look better than they do JUST BEFORE THE PARTY STARTS. If possible, locate a spot where natural light is entering a window and POSE them and the cake for some big smiling photos. (The younger the child, the less chance for smiles, so don't go crazy.)
And, by the way, there will be plenty of opportunity later to take some birthday party pictures with cake and ice cream dribbling out of their mouth.

2005-09-08T03:45:00.000-07:00

Tips for Purchasing a Digital Camera Lens

Your lens is an essential element to good photographs. It's not just your camera. People spend thousands of dollars on a good camera and neglect the lens.
Change that around! Make sure you buy a good camera lens when purchasing a camera. Buy a good camera as well, but don't neglect a good camera lens.
Why? Your camera is just the 'holder' for the photograph. The lens is what your camera sees all your shots through. A good lens is essential to clear and sharp photos.
With most compact digital cameras, you can't change the lens. So in that case, don't just buy a good camera, ensure it also has a good lens.

Avoid a plastic digital camera lens because it doesn't have the clarity of a glass lens.
What model of lens?Stick with camera lenses from well known manufacturers like Nikon, Canon and Pentax. Ensure you purchase a lens that works with your camera too. A Nikon camera lens usually won't work well with a Canon camera.
There are specialty lens manufacturers like Carl Zeiss, Leica and Leupold. If you're a beginner, don't worry about these lenses until you are more advanced as they come with very high prices and it's hard to justify the price for the small increase in quality.

Types of Camera Lens
The most common lenses are : Wide Angle, Normal and Telephoto. The type of lens is determined by the Focal Length of the lens. See below.
A Zoom Lens is simply a lens that can change Focal Length from a Wide Angle to a Telephoto (or somewhere inbetween).
There are a number of things to look for when purchasing a camera lens.
Lens Focal Length
The Focal Length of a lens determines the amount of magnification and angle of vuew the lens can see. The Focal Length is measured in mm. It's the Focal Length that determines if the lens is a:
Wide Angle; small magnification, wide angle of view. 20mm to 35mm
Traditional, or Normal; 50mm
Telephoto; high magnification, narrow angle of view; 105mm to 300mm.
Zoom; A Zoom lens can change it's focal length to zoom in. A Zoom lens might have a Focal Length of between 50mm and 150mm.

Some lenses are interchangeable between film cameras and digital cameras, but you need to be aware that the effective focal length CHANGES between film and digital. The focal lengths I describe above are for FILM cameras and need to be multiplied by 1.6 to get the effective focal length on a digital camera. So using a film 35mm lens on a digital camera has an effective focal length of 56mm.

What does this mean for you? It means that you won't get as wide angle on a digital camera as you would on a film camera using the same lens. A 35mm lens which gives a medium wide angle on a film camera acts as a traditional lens on a digital camera
This is a complex subject, so I can't go into too much detail here. If you need more help, the best person to speak to would be your local camera store's resident expert.

Lens Speed
The 'speed' of a digital camera lens also defines a lens. The speed is determined in f-stops and is similar to the f-stop aperture setting on your camera. Faster lenses are more expensive and usually heavier.

Focusing Distance
This is the minimum distance from the camera lens that a subject must be to be in focus. Don't worry about getting a camera with a close focusing distance. Concentrate on a telephoto instead.

More Advanced Features
More expensive lenses have more advanced features.
Vibration Reduction. A feature called 'vibration reduction' keeps images sharper when shooting in low light. They help to counter any vibration in the camera. Try to find a digital camera lens with this feature.

USM
USM stands for Ultrasonic Motor. This feature of Canon lenses gives you a high speed auto focus but the main benefit is the 'motor' is almost silent, so you don't disturb people around you when your camera is focussing.

Filter Thread.
When purchasing a half-decent lens, it should have a filter thread. This is a thread that allows you to screw on a filter (such as a polariser) to help when photographing difficult situations. Even if you don't need filters right now. it's handy to purchase a lens with a thread so you can add a filter later.
You get what you pay for
Generally the more expensive the lens, the better it is. More expensive lenses usually have a higher number of glass elements in the lens, which also makes them heavier.

Final Notes
While it is important to choose good quality camera lens, for beginners it isn't as important as good composition. Don't fall into the trap of thinking you can only take a great picture with an expensive top-of-the-line lens. A badly composed picture won't look great with a great camera lens.
I don't mean to discount the importance of a good quality lens. A good rule is to only add to your lens collection only when you have a specific need for a particular digital camera lens.
Do your research and your homework first, and find the lens that suits both you and your camera.

2005-09-08T03:41:00.000-07:00

Potrait Photography

The most important rule to remember is that it is a portrait, not necessarily of just the head, but the person, or group is the focal part of the picture, so it is important to take the photograph without any extraneous clutter. Because you will always be dealing with people you have to maintain control, not as a tyrant, but you have to guide your subjects.
Therefore a certain degree of self-confidence is necessary. If you are taking a formal portrait of a group of children it is necessary for you as the photographer to ensure that none of the children are making faces.
When you have signed up a person for a photographic portrait take a few extra shots, and offer them as wallet or purse photographs at a smaller fee. You already have the start business capitalise on it, few people can resist the feeling that they have got .something for nothing.. This may seem a waste of time; they can be important additives for your portfolio.

Portrait photography has undergone many changes of style since the introduction of the formal portrait. The modern emphasis is to bring out each individual.s personality. Top glamour models are paid enormous fees to express a distinctive personality, but to bring that aspect forward in your subject is as much about people skills as camera techniques. It is imperative to be able to create a rapport with your subject to bring out the expressions that display their personality. Anyone over the age of two can pose for the camera, with a vacuous expression, but the secret of saleable portrait photography is capturing more than the pose. To be a really good portrait photographer you have to be able to connect with people, if you have not got these skills, then it is better that you concentrate on some other types of photography

If you want to flatter your subject, you'll probably want to minimize their nose. Stand about twelve feet from your subject, so that their nose isn't significantly closer to you than the rest of the face. However, at such a large distance from the camera, if you want to fill the frame with just your subject's face, then you need a high magnification lens. Typical "portrait" lenses are therefore between 90 and 135 millimeters long when you are using a 35mm camera.

Whilst a lot of portrait photography is completed inside a studio, the prospect of natural light can be very flattering. This can be achieved inside by positioning your subject in front of a window. Environmental portraiture presents different challenges. These portraits are best enlarges, otherwise the subjects face gets lost in the background. Slow film and the use of a tripod; help to keep your images sharp. There are a number of professional photographers who argue that a portrait is not shown to it.s best advantage when it is clinically sharp and they use a filter, but with modern digital cameras, you can make an adjustment in Photoshop at a later time. However if you are using a digital camera you will achieve the best results with a camera with a true single reflex lens.

Natural light or umbrella lighting can achieve soft lighting; both of these reduce shadows and show the face in a .better more attractive light.. However there is another type of portrait photography, which is high impact photography. This is a very dramatic type of portrait photography, which uses very strong light with a high contrast of tonal color. This technique is more effective indoors, as it is achieved by controlling light, and their is too much light to control out of doors. Position your subject at different angles to the light, from one side, or from underneath. This lengthens the shadows, rather than muting them, and gives a distinctly dramatic effect. You can achieve this in varying degrees, but if the light source is placed at 90 degrees to the face, it will throw the whole of the opposite side of the face in shadow. If you are using a digital camera you can also manipulate the contrast later to achieve a more dramatic effect.

You can also improve your photographs if you include some motion shots, as well as the traditional stills. Just make sure that you use the correct film speeds.

2005-09-08T03:39:00.000-07:00

Printing Your Images

Photos are memories and unfortunately it seems we are losing them at a rate of knots. With the number of digital cameras being sold increasing every year, millions of precious pictures taken with them will never be printed!

There are a few very good reasons to print your photos:
We are a tactile species and enjoy looking at prints in our hands. The family album is definitely not a thing of the past.

Image longevity: Hard drives fail; CDs with images may become corrupted, or the technology may change and you may no longer be able to read them. Computers are not the best way to store data for a long time.

So making prints is a good idea.
Digital Printing OptionsThere are a number of options available for printing your digital images. Including:
Inkjet or Color Laser Printers
Photo Kiosks
Photo Store
Online Printing Services
Prolabs

General Tips for printing

Ensure you don't reduce the size or resolution of your images before printing unless you know your image is too large. Because your computer's screen resolution is relatively small, an image that looks fine on a computer screen after a resolution change may look blurry in print.
If you're not sure if an image is good enough quality to print, look at the file size for a guide. A size of 100 kilobytes is on the small size. 400 kilobytes is better and will normally allow a photo at 8"x10" dimensions.
Before you start each print job, check the printer settings (or preferences) and make sure you have selected the proper print size and type of paper (eg glossy, matte, plain).

To save money, print a few different images on each sheet. The print wizard should give you a chance to select a particular page layout (eg two 5x7's, four 3.5x5's etc).
Keep photo paper stored in a dark and cool place. Don't leave it sitting in the printer tray. Exposure to sunlight and humidity will degrade this paper (as well as the prints you produce with it).

Ink cartridges are expensive, so conserve ink wherever possible. If the image you are printing is, 400K in file size (or has a picture resolution of 300 dpi), and your print size is a small size (5x7 or smaller), select "normal" or "standard" print quality. If you select "high" or "best" or "maximum dpi" the printer will pump out more ink than is necessary without any real improvement in print quality. On the other hand, if you are printing large 8x10s, or if you have zoomed in, choose the top-quality print setting.

2005-09-08T03:21:00.000-07:00

Photography Business

Are you interested in starting a photography business, or want to make some extra cash from the wonderful photos you're able to create? Today's tip will help you with just that.
There's a large number of niche industries you can sell your photos to - and they want all kinds of photos from Travel Photos through Baby Photos and even Nude Photos. But how do you create the images they want, and what are the obstacles you need to overcome to sell to these markets? I recently came across a set of articles that answers these questions and more.

The author, Roy Barker, has been a professional photographer for years and the articles contain lots of good information about starting your own photo business and are very well written.

Roy has kindly allowed me to post his articles for you to read, and learn from. Choose the subject (or subjects) that you're interested in below and take a look

How To Start A Travel Photo Business
How To Start A Portrait Photo Business
How To Start A Wedding Photo Business
How To Start A Landscape Photo Business
How To Start A Fine Art Photo Business
How To Start A Nature Photo Business
How To Start A Baby Photo Business
How To Start A Nude Photo Business
You can learn much more by visiting Roy Barker's website.

2005-09-08T03:17:00.000-07:00

About Digital Camera Bags

Some compact cameras are small enough to fit in your handbag or pocket, but I still recommend purchasing a camera case. It will save your camera from unnecessary wear and tear.

What do you put in your camera bag? I place my camera, spare batteries and memory cards, a cleaning kit and any extra lenses or filters I want to take on the day into my camera bag.

Don't pack everything in your camera bag every time you go out to take photos. Travel as light as possible. Maybe purchase two camera bags - a large camera case and a smaller camera bag for those 'pack light' times. Clean your camera bag occasionally. Dust can accumulate and could cause problems with your camera and equipment by accumulating on your lens.

Keep your camera away from luggage handlers! Most airlines allow one carry-on PLUS a personal item. A camera bag usually qualifies as your personal item.

What kinds of camera bags are there?
A weatherproof top loading shoulder camera bag is the best and most versatile option, because you can place the camera case on the ground and open the lid to retrieve your equipment.
The size of camera bag you purchase will depend on the size of your digital camera. If you have a larger camera with lots of accessories, consider purchasing a larger camera bag that has wheels. The wheels allow you to take your bag with you easily rather than lugging it around over your shoulder. Some bags with wheels can double as backpacks for when you're hiking.

If your digital camera is a small pocket model, a fanny pack for just your camera will work really well. Keep the pack over your stomach (rather than your lower back) if you're concerned about theft.

Purchasing a camera bag
When purchasing a new camera case, it's important to note the following:
Avoid brand name camera bags. If you have a more expensive camera, try to purchase a camera bag that does not LOOK like a camera bag. Thieves are always on the lookout for bags that look like they contain valuable equipment and nothing says 'valuable inside' more than a camera case with a camera maker's brand plastered all around the outside. Purchase a camera case that's a little less conspicuous - they're usually less expensive as well.

Think of the accessories you'll place in a camera bag before purchasing. Do you have any other equipment (such as a card reader) you might want to take with your camera? What about accessories you are thinking about purchasing in the near future?

A camera bag with moveable padded inserts will be more versatile than one without because you can customize the inside of the camera bag to your particular camera and accessories.
Buy a camera case with lots of pockets and zippered compartments. This way, you can store used digital camera batteries in one pocket and unused batteries in another. The same with your memory cards... I label my pockets with labels like "Batteries - Used" so I can quickly find the correct pocket while out and about.

Watch out for the prices of camera cases (and other accessories) when purchasing a camera case at the same time as your camera. Many retailers lower the price of their cameras to compete, and increase their accessory prices to compensate

2005-08-30T23:03:00.000-07:00

About Digital Camera Memory Cards
Digital Photography BONUS Secretby David Peterson
Another accessory you should purchase is a spare memory card. Most cameras are sold with a 'starter' memory card that is usually a low capacity card that's enough to take a few sample photos on, but not enough for day-to-day use.
What is a memory card?A memory card is the little removable piece of plastic that your camera uses to store your photos. Memory cards come in different sizes and names such as Compact Flash (CF), Secure Digital (SD), Memory Stick (MS), Smart Media (SM) and xD.
Running out of memory on your card is a little like running out of film in a traditional camera. Rather than purchasing a new film to take more shots though, you move your images to your computer or a CD and re-use the same memory card.
Purchasing extra memory cards is a good idea is you're on a vacation and want to ensure you can store all your photos. Fortunately, prices of memory cards have come down dramatically in recent times.
Purchasing - what do I need to know?There are two pieces of information you need to know when purchasing a new memory card. What type of card your camera takes, and how large a memory card you wish to buy.
What memory card type does my camera use?
The simplest way to find out the type of memory card your camera uses, is to take your existing card out of the camera and look on it for one of the types listed above. If you're still not sure, take your existing card into the camera store and ask the staff for a new card with the same type as what you have.
The size of memory card you purchase will depend on your photography needs as well as your budget. Memory cards come in sizes between 16 Megabytes (and will fit between 4 and 32 images depending on your camera capabilities and image quality) and 4 Gigabytes (4,000 megabytes - store thousands of images on one of these cards).
My advice is to purchase the largest sized card you can afford. This will allow you to take as many pictures as possible before needing to transfer to a computer or CD. On my last holiday, I took along 1 Gigabyte of memory card storage allowing me to take about 500 images without needing to take my computer along with me to download the images to.
Memory Card SpeedAnother feature to keep in the back of your mind when purchasing a new memory card is the card's speed. The faster your memory card speed, the faster your camera can write it's image to the card, and the quicker you can take another photo. The actual speed will be the LOWEST of either your camera's fastest transfer speed (see your camera's manual) and the memory card's speed. If your camera can transfer at 40X speed, but your memory card can only handle 12X, 12X will be the actual transfer speed. Note that some cameras ignore the card's speed and write as fast as possible all the time.
How many memory cards do I need?I recommend you have at least two memory cards for your camera. The professionals usually carry 4-6 memory cards and when they run out of memory on one they swap to the next, but unless you're taking LOTS of photos, that's overkill. With two cards, you can normally work with one but you have a spare just in case you run out of the first, or you go on a long vacation and need to store more images than you normally would.
MicrodrivesA recent invention that's gaining a lot of popularity is the Microdrive. These are for the Type II Compact Flash cards, and instead of memory inside the card, there's a tiny hard drive. Their advantage is they can store an enormous amount of data (over 6 Gigabytes), but the problem is they are a little more expensive than a traditional memory card, and can take longer to save your image. They also aren't as shock resistant as standard cards.
Care of cardsMemory cards, although they seem to be small and flimsy, can be quite robust. I've dropped one of my cards in a glass of coke and it has survived - although I don't recommend you do this! It will also depend on the brand of card you purchase. More expensive cards tend to withstand more pounding. Most memory cards will withstand a small amount of misuse, but like any electronic components, take good care of them and they will serve you well.
Other Memory Card Secrets
If you transfer lots of images to your computer, purchase a card reader. These will allow you to transfer the images to your computer at a much faster rate than using your camera's connection.
Contrary to popular opinion, airport x-ray machines will not damage your camera's memory cards. If you're really worried, remove them from your bag and ask the screeners to inspect manually.
Turn off your camera when inserting or removing memory cards. Taking the memory card out while the camera is writing to the card could wreck both your card and camera.

2005-08-30T23:00:00.000-07:00

About Digital Camera Batteries

One technology that hasn't kept up with the rapid pace of new digital cameras is camera batteries. The more features a camera has, the quicker it seems to use up precious battery power.

There are three features of digital cameras that chew up battery life the quickest:
LCD Screen. This is by far the most power thirsty feature in digital cameras. You can turn the screen off to conserve power, but I don't recommend this because the screen is very useful to determine if you have taken a great shot.

Flash. Another big power user. The flash uses lots of battery as it's charging, so minimize usage.
Zooming in and out also uses battery power to drive the motor. Refrain from changing your zoom too much. I recommend staying close to full optical zoom.

Make your batteries last longer
Given the two biggest power users on your camera are the LCD screen and Flash, there are ways to reduce the usage of these. If your camera allows you to, reduce the brightness of the screen to get more time from your battery. This will still allow you to see your photo, but it won't use as much power.
How do you minimize usage of the flash? Try doing without the flash when you're in low light by increasing the light around you. Or increase the "ISO Speed". The higher the ISO setting, the less light is needed to record the image.

Other secrets for making your batteries last longer:

Most digital cameras have a Power Saving mode. This 'shuts down' the camera - not switch off - after a period of time without use. Make sure Power Saving mode is on, or simply switch off your camera when you're not using it.

In cold weather, keep your camera and batteries warm in your jacket until you are ready to use them. Cold weather to batteries is like RAID is to bugs!

Store batteries in a cool, dry location away from sunlight and other heat sources.
Avoid unnecessary playback of your already taken images, as this can also use a lot of juice.
If you haven't used your camera for a while, your rechargeable batteries will have lost some of their charge. Ensure you charge them fully before leaving the house.
Buy a spare batteryThis has two advantages. You can get double the time from of your camera before needing to recharge by using two batteries. If you don't need an extra battery all the time, you can have one charging at home when you're using the other. Then when you get home, swap them. Never leave your camera behind again because you don't have a charged battery.
What kind of battery should I purchase?You will need to purchase a battery that is compatible with your camera, so I recommend taking your camera's battery to the shop with you when purchasing so the staff can find another compatible battery. You don't need to purchase a battery from the same manufacturer as your camera, although be aware that choosing another brand may void your warranty - check your manual.
Go for a rechargeable nickel-metal hydride battery if possible. These battery types have a greater capacity than the rechargeable ni-cad batteries and will pay for themselves in a short period of time.

Use the AC adapterMost cameras have an adapter to allow you to plug directly into a power point. If you're going to be shooting for a long period of time in the one location, a camera plugged into a power point can be very handy. Note that some cheaper cameras have the plug for an AC adapter, but not the adapter itself.

2005-08-23T20:28:00.000-07:00

Using Tripods

Using a tripod is essential when taking photos - and not just for night shots. To get ultra crisp and sharp pictures, your camera cannot move at all when the shutter is open. In some circumstances, even the tiny movements your hand makes are enough to make a slightly blurry image. The best way to ensure your camera does not move is to use a tripod or other camera stand.
On sunny days or when you use a really fast shutter speed, simply holding the camera in your hand will still produce a sharp image. But there's another reason for using a tripod on these occasions as well. Erecting the tripod causes you to SLOW DOWN and think a little more about the shot you're about to take. Because you're concentrating more, you'll have a better chance of composing your image correctly and ending up with a super shot.

Types of Camera Stands
Tripod. This is a three legged stand that attaches to the mount on your camera. This is the most common type of mount to hold your camera steady, and allows you to move your hands away from the camera completely and still have it steady in position.

Monopod. A variation on the tripod, this stand only has one leg. Attach the monopod to your camera, stand it on the ground and use your hands to ensure the camera and stand don't fall over. This helps because the monopod stops the camera moving up and down, and provides a rest for your hands so camera shake is reduced. For a bit of extra stability, lean yourself, or your camera against another sturdy object like a light pole.

Chainpod. An ingenious design consisting of a length of chain (or string) with a loop on one end large enough to place your foot into. The other end is attached to your camera. To use a Chainpod, place your foot through the loop and pull your camera up so the chain is tight while taking your photo. The tension in the chain will reduce camera shake just like a monopod. The great advantage of a chainpod is you can crunch it up and place it in your pocket!

Dolly. This is a tripod with wheels (and brakes!). A dolly allows you to move your tripod around easily without needing to lift your camera, but it's not so useful outdoors when the ground is uneven. There are dolly attachments available for regular tripods.

Car Window Mount. This gadget allows you to mount your camera to your car window to take photos of wildlife while still sitting in the car.

A Rock! Yes, as I explained in Secret #7 on Tripods, you can use any ledge as a tripod when you need a sharp picture but don't have a tripod handy. You can also use a small bean bag to steady your camera and lens if your camera doesn't stand upright by itself.

Which should I purchase?
If you're just starting out, I recommend purchasing a standard tripod with telescoping legs that stands full length (5-6 feet). Make sure you get a sturdy (preferably all aluminum) model. Pick the heaviest model you can carry around with you.
Lightweight models are available, as are mini-tripods - Perfect for portability, but they don't have the stability of the larger models.

Using a Tripod
Most of the time, you just setup your tripod, place your camera on top and shoot! There are a few subtleties to using a tripod that can help enormously.
The longer the legs of the tripod, the less steady the tripod becomes. Extend your tripod legs only enough to enable you to get your camera into the correct position.
Sometimes the act of depressing the shutter causes movement in the camera. To minimize this, use your other hand and press down on the top of the camera directly above the tripod mount. This will help to further reduce movement.

You're most likely to need your tripod when your camera is fully zoomed in. When fully zoomed in, any small shake is likely to show on the image.

Other Tripod Secrets
Try to find a tripod with a built in level. The level will help ensure your landscape shots are completely straight and save needing to rotate the image slightly in your computer to get a level horizon.
Specialized lenses are available that can compensate for camera shake. They are called "Image Stabilizers" or "Vibration Reduction lenses". They can be rather expensive, so I recommend sticking with a tripod.
Try to get a tripod with a quick release mount. This will enable you to quickly remove the camera from your tripod should you need to take a quick 'candid' shot.

2005-08-22T21:38:00.000-07:00

Lighting Secrets

Almost as important as composition is the use of light. Here are some secrets for using light.
The best outdoors light to be found is at dawn and dusk. Here the light is not as bright as midday, and the sun produces some wonderful reds. Both these help to make a normally ordinary shot look magic by creating a warm glow.
When you are shooting outdoors, the best way to shoot is away from the sun. Don't have the sun in your photographs because it will overpower the colors and ensure the side of your subject facing the camera is in shadow. Ensure the sun is behind your back.
Another thing to watch out for is that your subject doesn't squint. We all love to see bright wide eyes, so ensure the sun isn't too bright. This is another reason to shoot at dawn or dusk - you can have the subject facing the sun but not squinting... and you get much better colors in your image at the same time!
If shooting in sunlight, watch for shadows. Look at the shadow cast by your subject and ensure it doesn't block anything, or look unsightly. Additionally, ensure your own shadow doesn't fall into the picture!
The best night shots are taken just after sunset. This is where scenes are lit up as if it were night, but there is still a tiny bit of sunlight around to help light the scene and bring out the detail.
When indoors, try moving your lighting sources around. Lights at lower angles are usually more dramatic than plain overhead lighting.
Remember the secret about using your flash during the day? It's also possible on most digital cameras to take night shots without a flash. Try setting your ISO speed to 800 or above to ensure the camera is sensitive to very low light.
Need to use the flash, but it's a bit harsh? Try taping some wax paper over the flash to diffuse the light.
Want to light a very small object? If you're using your macro setting to take a shot, cut up a plastic milk container and place it around the object. It will diffuse the surrounding light.

2005-08-16T00:28:00.000-07:00

Tips for Taking Sports IMages
Most of us have seen sports photos that capture the essence of the action - mostly in the sports sections of the newspapers. It's normally pretty hard to create quality sporting photos because most of the time (for large events) you can't get close enough to the action to capture the event properly. Would you like to be able to take those same quality images of your kid's sports events? Read on.

Location
You need to get as close to what you are shooting as you can. Most press photographers are given specific places they can shoot from - and they pay for that privilege. I'm betting you don't have a press pass and so will need to shoot from the stands. Get as close to the action as possible.
It also helps to know the sport you are photographing. Get into the correct location to enable you to "capture the moment". Near the goal posts is usually a good spot for Football or Soccer.

Capture The Moment
Sports photography is mostly about timing. Be ready at the right place and be ready to shoot at the right time. Most sports have predictable moments - scoring a goal, getting a home run, shooting a basket. Be ready for when these moments happen.

Remember the following - "If you see the action, you missed it." This basically means you need to anticipate the action. Don't wait for the batter to hit the ball before pressing the shutter. If you do, the image will likely to be taken once the ball has been hit and has left the frame. Anticipate by holding the shutter release down half way (so the camera can focus and set the exposure level). Just before the ball is hit, press the shutter all the way down. Through experience, you will learn how much time beforehand you need to press the shutter.
Be aware that sports also have unpredictable moments, so keep a keen eye out for these and have your camera ready.

Sports Equipment
Having the correct gear is essential to great sports photography. Because most of the time you will be standing a long way from the action, you will almost certainly need a telephoto lens to enable you to zoom in. Because most good telephoto lenses are large and bulky, you should also think about a monopod (a tripod with only one leg). An optional piece of equipment is a flash with a high output but be aware that a lot of sports events do not allow flashes. Talk to an event official first to get the okay.

Focus
An out of focus shot is pretty useless. You should aim for every photo to be crisp and clear. Auto focus cameras do a very good job of this, and they usually focus pretty quickly. Many times, however, manual focus will work much better because the camera's auto focus can take a long time to complete.

There are two ways you can focus your camera - Zone Focus and Follow Focus. Follow Focus is where you keep your camera on the subject, changing the focus as needed to ensure the subject stays in focus as they are moving around the court (or ground). This works well when most of your subjects are moving from side to side in your image - car racing, football and soccer are three examples.

Zone Focus is where you expect the action to take place at a specific position - eg a the basket ball ring or the jump point for a high jumper. Focus on the area you want to be sharp and wait for your athlete to move into the zone.

CompositionFaces. The face is the primary source of emotion, and because emotion is what makes a shot it's vitally important to include faces in your digital images. It can be difficult to capture faces in some sports (fencing for example involves face cages, baseball caps create shadows on the players faces). Use a flash to fill in the shadows in these instances but remember the flash has a very limited range.

Use Vertical. Because the human form is taller than it is wide, it lends itself to a vertical composition. Rotate your camera 90 degrees so the height of your image is also larger than the width.

Rule Of Thirds. The Rule Of Thirds is also useful here. Divide the frame into thirds vertically and horizontally and place the subject where the lines intersect. Watch for where the player is moving too - if they are moving to the right, place them on the left third line and vice versa.

Take Individual Shots.
Most professional photographs are of individuals so try to shoot one person at a time. Exceptions to this are when there is conflict - two players fighting for a ball.
Know Your SportEach sport has a different technique for getting the best images and it helps to know the key elements of your sport. Know the basic fundamentals of the game and be prepared for what may happen next. With 15 seconds to go with a basketball team two points down, they may try to shoot a basket from the opposite end of the court. Anticipating this will help immensely with your photographs.
It also helps to know the players. If a particular player does a victory dance after each touchdown, be ready for it when it happens.

Freezing Action Shots
Most of the time you want to freeze the action. People want to see people suspended in mid air, or in mid shot. To freeze the action you need a fast shutter speed. The faster the shutter speed, the better the freeze but the more light you need. Most of the time this won't be a problem as a lot of sports are held outdoors. Set your camera to the fastest shutter speed possible.

The Illusion of Movement
It isn't always the best thing to freeze-frame the action. Blurry images imply movement which helps in some sports. You don't want a race car to appear to be standing still but having the car crisp while the background is blurry will help show that the car is moving fast.
Slow your shutter speed down and follow the subject (panning) with your camera. Try to keep your subject in the same position in the frame. This will blur the background and keep your subject sharply focused.

Emotion
Hands down Emotion is what makes fantastic photos. If there is no emotion, there is no desire to view a photo. Fortunately, sports participants who are exerting themselves exhibit emotion. The thrill of victory or the agony of defeat are both fantastic emotions to capture. But don.t forget the other chances for emotion to show: A high jumper preparing for the highest jump of his career; a cricketer batsman positioning a hit ball between two fielders; Even a junior hockey player getting the hair out of her eyes.
Oh, and crowd reactions also make fantastic shots. Don't forget to turn your camera around every now and again and look at the crowd.

Take Safe Images
Although you want to try to take memorable shots at key points in the action, sometimes you just miss them. To ensure you have a record of the day, take a number of "safe" images that will show what happened, but may not have the emotion of that specific action shot. Take images of the players doing "what they do" in the sport. Eg a tennis player serving.

Take lots of images
Not every image you take will be a perfect shot capturing the action and emotion. Prepare for this and take as many shots as you can while at the event. It's not unusual for professional photographers to take 100 shots during a match and only use two or three. Don't just take any old shots though. Try to plan each one to capture a story or an emotion.
Taking memorable sports images can take time and effort, but with patience and a little knowledge, you too can produce sports magazine quality images

2005-08-13T03:20:00.000-07:00

Landscape

2005-08-13T03:16:00.000-07:00

Lighting Secrets
by David Peterson
Almost as important as composition is the use of light. Here are some secrets for using light.
The best outdoors light to be found is at dawn and dusk. Here the light is not as bright as midday, and the sun produces some wonderful reds. Both these help to make a normally ordinary shot look magic by creating a warm glow.
When you are shooting outdoors, the best way to shoot is away from the sun. Don't have the sun in your photographs because it will overpower the colors and ensure the side of your subject facing the camera is in shadow. Ensure the sun is behind your back.
Another thing to watch out for is that your subject doesn't squint. We all love to see bright wide eyes, so ensure the sun isn't too bright. This is another reason to shoot at dawn or dusk - you can have the subject facing the sun but not squinting... and you get much better colors in your image at the same time!
If shooting in sunlight, watch for shadows. Look at the shadow cast by your subject and ensure it doesn't block anything, or look unsightly. Additionally, ensure your own shadow doesn't fall into the picture!
The best night shots are taken just after sunset. This is where scenes are lit up as if it were night, but there is still a tiny bit of sunlight around to help light the scene and bring out the detail.
When indoors, try moving your lighting sources around. Lights at lower angles are usually more dramatic than plain overhead lighting.
Remember the secret about using your flash during the day? It's also possible on most digital cameras to take night shots without a flash. Try setting your ISO speed to 800 or above to ensure the camera is sensitive to very low light.
Need to use the flash, but it's a bit harsh? Try taping some wax paper over the flash to diffuse the light.
Want to light a very small object? If you're using your macro setting to take a shot, cut up a plastic milk container and place it around the object. It will diffuse the surrounding light.

2005-08-09T05:32:00.000-07:00

Clean your Camera
by David Peterson
If your images always turn out all blurry, it may mean your lens needs a clean. Most high end cameras come with threads to which you can attach a SkyLight (or UV) filter. This helps to protect the lens from not only dirt, but scratches. Cheaper cameras don't have threads so remember to cover the lens when not in use and try not to touch it.
Don't clean the lens too often - depending on how often you use your camera, every few weeks or few months is fine. To clean your lens, pick up a lens cleaning kit from your local photo store. Use the lens brush and air blower to remove any loose clinging particles. Place a drop of lens cleaning fluid onto some lens tissue (or a cloth) and wipe the lens clean with a circular motion. Use the blower to dry the lens, or let it dry naturally. Don't use any abrasive solution (such as soap) or wipe too hard on the lens as you can wipe away the special coatings.
Ensure you protect the other parts of your camera as well. Particularly the Memory Card slot and Battery contacts. If you find they have any corrosion, you can remove it easily with a pencil eraser. Make sure you remove the excess eraser that can get left in the compartment with an air blower. Never ever insert anything into the memory card slot that isn't meant to be there, as you could break the small pins. To keep clean, it's best to leave a memory card in the slot, or at least keep the cover closed.

2005-08-09T05:31:00.000-07:00

Shooting Vacations
by David Peterson
Here are some tips for helping with your vacation shots
Take plenty of memory!
Make sure you have extra memory cards, have another storage facility like a Laptop or media storage unit.
Get close
Don.t stand too far from your subject . instead get nice and close so you can see their face. Either a three-quarter shot, or profile generally works well.
Candid counts
Images with people are usually more interesting when the subject is caught in a candid moment. When setting up for a posed shot, try to include something interesting to liven up the shot.
Make your trip a story. Create a visual diary by photographing landmarks along your journey such as signposts and street scenes. You can also capture the mood of the day - If you feel bright and happy, shoot some scenes which will capture that feeling. If you.re moved by what you see, ensure your shots convey that feeling.
Take shots at meals
This is the time when family is gathered around. Take advantage of it by taking an image or two of your relatives around the dinner table. Ensure you use a the red eye reduction mode of your flash and activate the self timer if you also wish to be in the shot.
Include the mundane
Most vacation photographers just photograph landmarks and scenery. Make your vacation shots more interesting by including the mundane . washing the dishes, taking off in the car, setting up camp, waiting for an aeroplane etc.

2005-08-09T05:28:00.000-07:00

Look for Reflections
by David Peterson
Water is a fantastic element to include in your photos, as the reflections it generates can make your image stand out.
Keep a look out for water around your environment when you shoot. Reflections from lights, or splashes of color can really help with the ambience of an image.
Rainy days are particularly good as puddles abound!
Extra Secret: Photographing just the reflection and leaving the subject out is a great way to produce abstract images.

2005-08-09T05:26:00.000-07:00

Use the LCD Monitor to preview images
by David Peterson
The LCD monitor will show you what your final image will look like. It won't be as large in size as your final image, but you will get enough of a feel for the image to know how your shot will turn out.
If your camera can show you a half second freeze of your shot just after you have taken it, turn this feature on. The half second will give you enough time to see if the image was well framed, and have the correct exposure or if you need to take another one.

2005-08-09T05:22:00.000-07:00

Don't add frills
by David Peterson
Some manufactures give you a feature that can imprint the current date and time onto your image. Or they offer to imprint other stats like the current exposure settings, or shot number.
Turn these off!
You don't want anything to distract you or your viewer from the subject of your photo.
Modern digital cameras record the time and date the shot was taken anyway in a separate part of the image file anyway, and most digital printing places will stamp the back of the image with the time and date the shot was taken so you can always see it.

2005-08-04T22:47:00.000-07:00

Use Predefined Modes

Many people don't know that most cameras now come with selected modes for taking shots. Eg Landscape, Cloudy Day, Full Sun, Indoors, Night.
Changing the mode of your camera to match your situation can result in better shots, as the camera has a better chance of selecting the shutter speed, flash and other exposure choices for a perfect picture.
Camera makers put a lot of thought into the settings for each of the different modes and tailor the settings to what will work well with their camera. So don't be afraid to use the predefined scene modes of your camera.

2005-08-04T01:02:00.000-07:00

Use Different Lenses and Filters

There are a wide variety of lenses and filters available to increase the range of options you have for shooting a photograph.

Note that not all digital cameras come with the ability to attach different lenses and filters.
Check the manual for your camera.

Some lens types include :

Wide Angle
Telephoto
Fish Eye

Using a Wide Angle lens is good for shooting a indoor room, or shooting a mountain vista. A TelePhoto lens can be useful when you need a close up. TelePhoto lenses are bascically a better optical zoom.

Filters include :

Polarizing
Soft Focus
Cooling/Warming
Graduated

A polarizing filter can be the most useful filter to own. A Polarizing filter can deepen the color and contrast in the sky, eliminate glare from water or reflective surfaces, or cut through fog like haze. Soft Focus filters generate more diffused looks for romantic, moody, atmospheric, foggy or glowing effects in your shots.

Cooling filters add more blue to an image giving a psychological effect of calming or serenity in the final image. Warming filters cut out excess blue in an overcast sky to add more reddish tones to the image and make your photos look less harsh.

Finally, graduated lenses help for scenes that have a huge difference in light level - eg late in the day when the sky is still bright, but the foreground is in shadow.

2005-08-04T01:00:00.000-07:00

Don't Rely On Flash

We've discussed using your flash a lot until now. There are ccasions where using a flash ruins the mood of the event you are photographing.
Why? A flash tends to create harsh subjects and will ruin any natural mood.
So, rather than using the flash whenever your camera tells you to, use available light whenever possible. In a dark situation, it's often better to open the shutter for longer to let in more light, or turn on existing lights to illuminate the room than to use the flash.
In daytime and when your subject is inside and near a window, have them face the light and position the camera between the window and your subject. This will allow the sunlight to light your image fully.

2005-08-01T04:42:00.000-07:00

Use Red Eye Reduction Flash
by David Peterson
Most newer cameras have two flash modes. Standard and Red Eye Reduction.
The Red Eye Reduction flash causes the camera to flash multiple times before taking the shot to get the subject's eyes used to the bright light.
Use this whenever taking photographs of people looking directly at the camera in low light.
Many people don't realise they needed to use the red-eye flash until after they look at their photos after the event. So remember to use red eye reduction whenever taking photos in the following situations :
People looking directly at the camera
Low Light
Using your flash.
It is also possible to remove Red Eye with software programs if you don't have this feature on your camera. There are a few free programs available to do this on the Internet. The Free Photo Editing site does free red eye removal. Note they do require payment for other photo editing work. Picasa is a free image manipulation program that does a great job of removing red eye.

2005-08-01T04:34:00.000-07:00

Give Yourself A Theme
Sometimes you need to think creatively to find better shots. Set yourself a theme to give your brain a head start.
For example, on a vacation choose a different color every day and ensure all your shots for that day have that color in that image. Or shoot only shots with triangles in them.
Other examples of themes are:
Fences
Bright Colors
Time
Cliche
Unfinished
Repeating Patterns
Desperation
Bliss
Make sure your theme is simple otherwise you'll be more pre-occupied with getting a shot in line with your theme than the image itself.
Another option for a theme when on vacation is to choose a selection of themes that captures the essence of the destination. Every area has themes relating to its landscapes, climate, cities, culture etc. Do some research by looking at local postcards or talking to taxi drivers to get an idea of the good picture taking locations.

2005-08-01T04:25:00.000-07:00

Look For Light
Different lighting can change the mood and feel of a shot, or be the difference between a mediocre and stunning shot.
The light from the setting sun can produce wonderful lighting for a subject, as does sunlight through leaves. Maybe you see a shaft of light between two large objects such as buildings that can be a perfect backdrop for your subject.
Other options for different light sources at night include :
Neon lights make great night time subjects. You can silhouette your subjects in front of them, or use them as a subject themselves.
Use a long exposure on a tripod to capture streaks of car lights on a road or highway, or other moving lights like on a ferry.

2005-08-01T04:19:00.000-07:00

Use Continuous Shooting
by David Peterson
Most digital cameras have a continuous shooting mode, where shots are taken one after the other in rapid succession.
When taking shots, there is often a short delay between when you press your finger on the button, and when the picture is actually taken. This delay may mean your subject has finished their action (eg blowing out candles on a cake) and you have missed the magic moment.
With Continuous Shooting you can take a sequence of shots and keep just the right one. Continuous Shooting also increases you chances of capturing a candid moment.
Where else can this be useful? Any shots of children or group shots will benefit from continuous mode.

2005-07-29T04:27:00.000-07:00

Using Flash During The Day
by David Peterson
Interestingly, one of the best uses of your flash is during bright sunlight! I know it sounds strange but it's true.
A flash helps to eliminate dark shadows (for instance under the eyes and chin of faces). It also helps to emphasize your subject.
When you take pictures of subjects with bright light behind them, for example a portrait that is backlit, or a duck swimming in water reflecting the sun, the camera will be fooled by the bright surroundings so the subject appears dark.
By turning flash on, you will fill in the shadow areas making the picture much more pleasing.
It can also be used to add a sparkle to eyes, and to reduce shadows under the nose and eyes when pictures are taken when the sun is bright and high in the sky (eg at midday).
Nature photographers even use flash to ensure the nooks and crannies of flower petals are properly lit - to reduce shadows.
Professional photographers use flash much more often than amateurs.

2005-07-27T23:08:00.000-07:00

Interesting Angles
Most photos are shot at eye level. I think this is because traditionally, you needed to have the viewvinder up to your eye to ensure you get everyone in the shot.
Because most digital cameras have an inbuilt LCD, you can now take the camera away from your eye and try taking photos from unusual angles.
Try tilting the camera left or right to better position your subject in the frame. Try taking the photo from below, or above your subject. Try getting further away or closer.
There's always more than one way to photograph a subject. Using different camera angles can make an otherwise boring image really stand out. The more you practice using different angles, the quicker you'll know what works and what doesn't.
Angle Tip : Lie on the ground and point your camera towards the sky for an interesting angle to shoot large monuments with.

2005-07-27T02:27:00.000-07:00

Beautiful Pics

Children make a wonderful subject. Here are some tips for ensuring photos of children are even more memorable.

Meet them eye-to-eye
Bring yourself down to the child.s level . even if you need to crouch down. This will give your shots a 'kids eye view' and won't distort their image (as taking the shot from above does).

Capture natural expressions
While posed shots are great, often better results can be gained by capturing an image when their thoughts are preoccupied with something else . eg while at play. You.ll capture their faces enjoying the moment rather than thinking about the camera.

2005-07-27T02:26:00.000-07:00

Auto Focus & Timing shots

When set to auto, some cameras can take a while to adjust for white balance and focus. This is the 2-3 second delay between when you first push the shutter button, and the shot actually being taken.

If this happens with your camera, try presetting these by holding the shutter release half way down to tell the camera to focus before you need to take the shot.

Then, keep your finger held half way down until you get the perfect shot, or use your camera's 'lock exposure' feature to keep the exposure settings locked until you find the right time to shoot.

Presetting your exposure and focus can REALLY help out then taking shots of children. They tend to not sit in one place waiting for you to adjust your camera, so the best shots are taken when you are prepared for a candid moment - eg when the child is engrossed in a task.

Next time : The piece of equipment professionals never leave the house

2005-07-27T02:23:00.000-07:00

Digital Photography

by David Peterson
Rather than placing your main subject in the middle of the screen, place it to one side and ensure something interesting is in the background that fills the remainder of the image.

This can be especially effective if the background has the same theme. For example, if photographing a child opening a Christmas present, frame them to one side and have the Christmas Tree with unopened presents filling the rest of the image.

There are a few guidelines that cam help you place your subject in the frame.

The Rule of Thirds
One of the most popular rules in photography is the "Rule of Thirds". It is a simple rule that can add dynamism to your photos. Simply, divide the image into thirds both horizontally and vertically. When composing your shot, place important elements either along these lines, or where the lines intersect - NOT at the centre of the frame.
For example, place a subject's eyes where the top line is, or place your subject on the place in the image where two of these lines intersect.

It's a very simple rule to follow and will result in a nicely balanced, easy on the eye picture. It also helps get rid of the 'tiny subject and large amount of space' tendency because you need to position items relative to the edges of the frame.

Having said this, the Rule of Thirds is also one of the rules you'll want to break often! This is fine - the Rule of Thirds is more of a guideline and sometimes you will find a better image when you break the rule.

Next time : Some tricks to get winning shots involving one of the most troublesome subjects - children!