Digital Camera Modes - Advanced Modes
Digital Photography Bonus Secret
by David Peterson
Once you've mastered shooting with basic modes, try some of the more advanced modes your camera supports. When starting to use these modes, I recommend some experimentation so you get familiar with each mode and how it changes the final photo.
Program Mode
This mode is similar to the Auto function in that the camera does some of the work, but you still have some control over how you want the photo to look. Program mode allows you to select from one of a number of shutter/aperture combinations for a specific exposure. I suggest learning how the different modes affect the shot by setting your camera on a ledge or tripod and shooting a scene with each of the different program modes. Notice how each mode changes what you see with the image.
Aperture Priority / AV Mode
This mode allows you to set the aperture setting for your camera and let your camera choose the appropriate shutter speed. Changing the aperture allows you to control the depth of field in your image - basically so you can choose how much is in focus.
Shutter Priority / Time Priority / TV Mode
Use Shutter Priority when the portrayal of motion is most important. When you want moving objects to blur, choose a slower shutter speed. A fast shutter speed will freeze your subject. The camera will select the appropriate aperture for a correct exposure.
Manual Mode
Here you can choose both the shutter speed and aperture to get just the setting you want. This mode gives you total control over the depth of field, lighting and motion in your images.
Most professionals use Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or Full Manual mode because they provide the most control over the image. All these extra settings do take some learning though, so I recommend trying one mode at a time and see how it affects the images you take.

Photo Review
by Curtis Routh
Professional reviews of photos are one of the best ways to improve your photographic skills. By studing what works and doesn't work, you learn to shoot more 'winners' yourself.

Curtis Routh has kindly agreed to review the following photos for me. Curtis runs a photography business called LeaveTheCamera.com and his insignts are very valued. Click on the photos to comment on the image, or rate it yourself.

Tired of Waiting by tsiklots

Tired Of Waiting
Overall: This is a very intriguing photograph. I have looked at it...gone away...came back and looked some more. This is the type photo that a great photographer is happy to get and should be in a "How to" B & W manual.
Summary: I cannot find a thing wrong with this photo. From trying to see what is outside, to the loosely hung curtains, to the pajamas he is wearing...to the half loose blinds....to the leather sofa. It's all there! The lighting is very good. There is major light coming in from the front and minor light highlighting his back and the scar on his arm. His little ear barely comes through and looks as if, even though he is sleeping, he could be listening. The black & white medium sets it off even more. This could be early morning or late afternoon. Either works well. I would love to see the original in color.

I give this picture a 9.9. A little more light might have brought out a few more of his features. Very wonderful shot. I like it very much. Congratulations on a great picture!


Up For Air by MikeK

Up For Air
Summary: I love nature shots. Especially in the raw and up close. The colors are very vivid and the detail is a testament to the glass and camera you are using. The depth of field is very good. I really like the scum bubbles in the water (lends to the fact of where they actually live). His eyes are very clear. You can see he is checking you out as much as you are him. Good exposure, great detail, and the colors are really outstanding. The AWB worked well in this shot. The focal point is his eyes. I like it. I like the title, too. Very accurate portrayal of the meaning of the shot. Overall, this is one of the best nature pictures I have seen on the site.
Improvements; The tight crop is great for detail, but it is almost disappointing not to see the rest of his reflection in the water. A little looser shot might have added a complete head reflection in the water. The shiny spot on his nose draws my eyes. I would like to see this shot after softening the bright spot in P.S. or another editing program. One step up in color saturation (P.S. or custom parameter) would have made the green jump off the page. I feel the colors, although very accurate, are a little flat. Contrast is good. Mood is good. Overall I rate this picture at a 9.8 Great job. I know these critters don't sit still very long. I give a 10 for catching the shot!


Daisy Kaimai by maryann

Daisy Kaimai
The setting for this photo is a stark contrast between light and dark. The flower is very prominent in the picture and the blurred, dark background gives a sense of foreboding drama. Kind of like good verses evil. It looks as if a flash were used to highlight the flower. This provides a definite contrast between light and dark as the flash falls off.
Improvements: I think the picture would be more interesting if the background were in focus ( a least a little). It would certainly make it easier to see where this was taken. Looks like it was taken near a pond or lake. Don't discount detail in the background. It is a little out of focus and I feel the flower would have been better served if it were more centered. I love the different light and dark colors. The blue in the center would have made the flower jump off the page. This would have made a happier picture if the white was more predominant than the dark. A little closer zoom would have brought out more detail in the flower. A tripod, if not used, would have worked well in this light.

Overall: I think this a great shot. The flower shines like a brand new dime in a bucket of old pennies. It says there is light, even in the darkness. I like the deep blue color in the center. It adds yet another perception of depth. I feel the overall rating of 8 is right on. Good picture!


Bobo by girdnerg

Bobo
Summary: Very nice photograph. I like the tight crop and the big brown eyes. The little shiner tells of recent boo boo. Nice touch. The lighting is good. Good skin color (a little pink). Flash worked well.
Improvements: I can't tell if that is an arm or leg in the photo. I think just her face would have worked better. Nice contrast between the foreground and background. Digital re-touch to remove the little blemishes off her forehead and nose, along with only her face, would have brought my full attention to the black eye(s). Overall a very nice shot. I give it an 8.5. Beautiful girl. Hope the eye gets well soon. Makes me want to say "ahhh".


Me & Grandpa by girdnerg

Me & Grandpa
Summary: Nice photo. Good light and good contrast between the green water and blue inner tube. I like the rugged forest in the background. Good reflection in the water down low. water gives a sense of motion.
Improvements: I would like to have seen the subjects a little closer to the trees in the back. There is too much to look at between the subjects and the background. The bright sunlight gave way to great color and detail, but it also caused both subjects to squint. Looking away from the light source for a few seconds and then looking back into the frame would have made for more natural facial expressions. I would recommend a half step down on the exposure to prevent the washout on the subjects and water. A polarized filter would have deepened the water and added color overall. I would have recommended a 5.6 aperture setting to darken this shot down a little. Overall I think it is a very good effort in very bright sunlight. I like the picture. Looks like fun. I give this shot a 7 overall.

I know all of this is a lot to think about when capturing the moment, but that can be fixed by taking several shots with varying aperture settings. Click, click, click. Pick the best.

More on Unusual Angles

Hold your camera at waist height and click while walking around. Some photos will be blurred, but you can usually find some that are very good. This works particularly well in sunlight when walking around a tourist area.

When shooting any subject with a lot of straight lines (like someone on a fence), turn the camera 45 degrees to give a diagonal look to your image that enhances the mood of the picture.

Sometimes the best images need to be taken from unusual locations such as from the top of a building (for a birds eye shot) or right down on the ground. Also point the camera different ways .including straight up or straight down. Don't be afraid to try different angles. Placing your camera at angles of 30 degrees from the horizontal or vertical lines work well.

When finding that great angle, don't worry about looking the fool! Being self-conscious will affect your ability to find great angles, your concentration, and maybe even the quality of your photographs.

You don't need to go to extremes to find a great angle - even standing on a step, or getting down onto one knee can make a lot of difference.

To make small things look large, lie on the ground and hold your camera towards the sky. This will make your small subject look like a giant! This also works well for tall buildings such as lighthouses.

Digital Camera Modes

-->Most people use the automatic mode of their camera and it takes good shots in most situations. It is often very helpful though to let the camera know what type of shot you're trying to take. This allows the camera to select the best settings for that particular image.
This can be done by changing to a different camera mode. In today's tip, we'll explain each of the different modes, when to use them, and what decisions the camera makes for each mode.

Full Auto / Green Mode
This is the mode that I recommend you start out with. It provides fully automated 'point and shoot' operation. All you need to do is frame the image and press the shutter!
Basic ModesWhen it's time to experiment with other settings, try using the basic modes first. Choose the mode appropriate for the image you want to take, and start shooting!

Landscape Mode
Use Landscape mode to take photos of mountains, scenery or cityscapes. Anytime where the whole image - both the foreground and background - needs to be in focus. Setting Landscape Mode will tell your camera to select a small aperture which will give a large depth of field and ensure the whole image is in focus.

Portrait Mode
Select Portrait mode when you want to take a shot of a person - usually showing their face. The best portraits are where the subject is in full focus, but the background is out of focus, so the camera increases the aperture in this mode to get a small depth of field. This places only the subject in focus.

Sports Mode
Sports mode is perfect for fast action shots. It ensures the camera uses a fast shutter speed so you can take photos of moving subjects without motion blur. Also, on some cameras the continuous shooting mode is enabled so the camera keeps taking shots as long as you depress the shutter.

Macro Mode
Close up shots of flowers, insects and the like require the camera to focus on an object that's really close to the lens. Macro mode provides just that setting by using the macro lens of the camera.

Night Mode
Use Night Mode at night, or at dawn or dusk. This is where you want to make best use of what little light is available. The camera will choose a slow shutter speed and turn off the flash. Try to place your camera on a tripod or keep it steady some other way when using this mode to ensure your images stay sharp.

Beach and Snow
Some cameras provide a "Beach and Snow" mode. This mode is for use when shooting highly reflective scenes - like at the snow. The camera will compensate for the bright scene and ensure the image is exposed correctly.

Digital Camera Modes

-->Most people use the automatic mode of their camera and it takes good shots in most situations. It is often very helpful though to let the camera know what type of shot you're trying to take. This allows the camera to select the best settings for that particular image.
This can be done by changing to a different camera mode. In today's tip, we'll explain each of the different modes, when to use them, and what decisions the camera makes for each mode.

Full Auto / Green Mode
This is the mode that I recommend you start out with. It provides fully automated 'point and shoot' operation. All you need to do is frame the image and press the shutter!
Basic ModesWhen it's time to experiment with other settings, try using the basic modes first. Choose the mode appropriate for the image you want to take, and start shooting!

Landscape Mode
Use Landscape mode to take photos of mountains, scenery or cityscapes. Anytime where the whole image - both the foreground and background - needs to be in focus. Setting Landscape Mode will tell your camera to select a small aperture which will give a large depth of field and ensure the whole image is in focus.

Portrait Mode
Select Portrait mode when you want to take a shot of a person - usually showing their face. The best portraits are where the subject is in full focus, but the background is out of focus, so the camera increases the aperture in this mode to get a small depth of field. This places only the subject in focus.

Sports Mode
Sports mode is perfect for fast action shots. It ensures the camera uses a fast shutter speed so you can take photos of moving subjects without motion blur. Also, on some cameras the continuous shooting mode is enabled so the camera keeps taking shots as long as you depress the shutter.

Macro Mode
Close up shots of flowers, insects and the like require the camera to focus on an object that's really close to the lens. Macro mode provides just that setting by using the macro lens of the camera.

Night Mode
Use Night Mode at night, or at dawn or dusk. This is where you want to make best use of what little light is available. The camera will choose a slow shutter speed and turn off the flash. Try to place your camera on a tripod or keep it steady some other way when using this mode to ensure your images stay sharp.

Beach and Snow
Some cameras provide a "Beach and Snow" mode. This mode is for use when shooting highly reflective scenes - like at the snow. The camera will compensate for the bright scene and ensure the image is exposed correctly.

Digital Camera Modes Most people use the automatic mode of their camera and it takes good shots in most situations. It is often very helpful though to let the camera know what type of shot you're trying to take. This allows the camera to select the best settings for that particular image. This can be done by changing to a different camera mode. In today's tip, we'll explain each of the different modes, when to use them, and what decisions the camera makes for each mode. Full Auto / Green Mode This is the mode that I recommend you start out with. It provides fully automated 'point and shoot' operation. All you need to do is frame the image and press the shutter! Basic Modes When it's time to experiment with other settings, try using the basic modes first. Choose the mode appropriate for the image you want to take, and start shooting! Landscape Mode Use Landscape mode to take photos of mountains, scenery or cityscapes. Anytime where the whole image - both the foreground and background - needs to be in focus. Setting Landscape Mode will tell your camera to select a small aperture which will give a large depth of field and ensure the whole image is in focus. Portrait Mode Select Portrait mode when you want to take a shot of a person - usually showing their face. The best portraits are where the subject is in full focus, but the background is out of focus, so the camera increases the aperture in this mode to get a small depth of field. This places only the subject in focus. Sports Mode Sports mode is perfect for fast action shots. It ensures the camera uses a fast shutter speed so you can take photos of moving subjects without motion blur. Also, on some cameras the continuous shooting mode is enabled so the camera keeps taking shots as long as you depress the shutter. Macro Mode Close up shots of flowers, insects and the like require the camera to focus on an object that's really close to the lens. Macro mode provides just that setting by using the macro lens of the camera. Night Mode Use Night Mode at night, or at dawn or dusk. This is where you want to make best use of what little light is available. The camera will choose a slow shutter speed and turn off the flash. Try to place your camera on a tripod or keep it steady some other way when using this mode to ensure your images stay sharp. Beach and Snow Some cameras provide a "Beach and Snow" mode. This mode is for use when shooting highly reflective scenes - like at the snow. The camera will compensate for the bright scene and ensure the image is exposed correctly. Next Time: We'll delve into the more advanced modes available on the higher end cameras. © 2005. www.Digital-Photo-Secrets.com. All Rights Reserved. Email:info@digital-photo-secrets.com

Wedding Photography

Weddings can be a great time for photograph taking. Note the following tips:
Most couples hire a professional photographer, so be careful not to interfere with the professional's work.

Buy some bridal magazines beforehand and look at the photos inside for inspiration.
The bride's dress can overpower the camera, as it's all white. Either the dress looks perfect and the bride's face is too dark, or her face is perfect and the dress has no details. This can be circumvented by using a reflective surface (like a large white card) to direct extra light towards the bride's face. A white wall can achieve the same purpose.

Use different angles. Try zooming in on a kiss, or tilting the camera slightly.

At the Church: Some churches don't allow flash photography. If your camera doesn't work well in low light don't try to take any shots in the church. Instead wait until the happy couple pauses on the church front steps. Plan ahead and find a good location before they exit the church.
Don't just focus on the bride and groom - take photos of the other guests.

At the Reception: Events at the reception include cutting the cake, the first dance and the bouquet toss. Plan ahead so you can be at the right place at the right time - it helps to have a family member alert you when the event is about to start.

"Be prepared" is the motto when shooting weddings! Attend the rehearsal and take note of the sequence of events. If there is no rehearsal, visit the scene of the wedding beforehand and study the lighting and other conditions that will affect your photos. Knowing what to expect will save you lots of time on the day.

When shooting at weddings you want to minimize the distractions of using any manual settings of your camera, but still want great photos. One way to do this is to use your camera's custom white balance feature. Take a white balance reading at the front of the church; inside the church; and in the hallway - whenever the light changes a lot. Use the same reading for all shots at that location. If your camera supports it, you can also 'save' these settings beforehand as index shots and switch back to the appropriate settings when you take the photos.

For interesting shots, try not showing everything in your image - leave some to the imagination. For instance, the bride may have a veil and a headdress etc. Rather than showing these with every picture, cut it away and leave hints every now and then.

Macro Photography

Macro photography is the art of photographing small objects like flowers and bugs. Here are some tips for fantastic macro photography.

Start to train your eye to see macro opportunities. You'll be surprised at the objects you'll want to capture : Stamps, Paper Clips, Coins, Pins etc. Some of the best subjects are provided by Nature - Flowers, Plants, Bugs and Leaves.

Try getting in really close to everyday objects such as the wood grain of a table, the veins of leaves, the texture of gravel or the worn look of a slippery slide.

Use a flash if there isn't much light - but be careful because at this close range the flash could over expose the subject and image. A 'Ring Flash' unit can help. This clips onto the front of the lens and can give a softer effect.

If your camera has trouble focussing at close range, try moving away a little and use the optical zoom to incease your magnification.

Try purchasing a 'close up lens' that attaches to the end of your camera's filter thread. This is a great alternative if your camera doesn't have an inbuilt macro, but does have a thread to attach filters.

Use a small white card to fill any shadows in the image. Shadows can be a problem if you are shooting in bright sunlight, or using an overhead lamp. Any single light source will cause shadows.

Increase your ISO setting so you can use faster shutter speeds. This will ensure your images will be as sharp and clear as possible. Don't increase your ISO too far as you'll get a very 'noisy' image.

Use a tripod as much as possible to eliminate camera shake and to be sure your camera's focus is right.

Don't use the optical viewfinder. Because of 'parallax', the image you see in the optical viewfinder will not be the same as what the camera sees... Particularly for macro shots.

Candid Photography

Candid photography is photography that focuses on spontaneity rather than technique. Your subject's focus is not on the camera, but on their current task. So we're not talking about the photo albums full of people looking at the camera and smiling here! Your subjects are un-posed and the shots are unplanned.

Candid photos are usually simple photos without a lot of technical equipment or any time taken 'setting up the shot'. Thus they capture some wonderful 'slices of life'!

Here are some tips for taking candid photos:

Take your camera everywhere you go! Keep alert for candid situations - they can be found everywhere.

Some examples of candid shots: A daydreaming store owner; an elderly man sitting beside you; commuters waiting for a train; two lovers on a park bench about to kiss; a child's delight when feeding ducks; elation of a football supporter when a goal is scored; a city tramp surrounded by clutter; a woman lost in thought staring at the beach.

It's rare to get a second chance with candid photography. When you see an opportunity, grab it!
Don't use complicated lighting techniques for taking your candid shots. Concentrate on the simple and use your camera's automatic features. Technical problems don't matter so much if you have a great candid photo. Most technical problems (like if the image is too dark or too light) can be fixed on your computer.

Set your camera to "ISO 400" so it uses a fast shutter speed. This will help you 'grab' the shot even if you are moving.

The best candid photographers blend into the background so don't be too obvious. Do what everyone else is doing so you fit in with the situation. Then when you see a good candid moment, bring your camera up to your eye.

You don't always need to take the shot with your camera at eye level. Support your camera on your waist when taking the photo. Some luck or experience is needed here to get the framing right.

Use your zoom lens to it's fullest extent so you can keep away from the action while taking your shot. A Telephoto lens is essential if you're going to be a fair way away.

Never take photos of people's backs. Nothing is more boring than a group of people with all backs turned to the camera. It just doesn't work.

Try converting the image to Black and White to get that extra punch and emotion.
People 'doing things' make the best candid photos. Sports players, trades people, farmers and accountants are all excellent examples of subjects with 'things to do'. Try to capture the essence of the person's task. For example, you might capture a plumber concentrating on fixing a leaky pipe.

If you're in a public place, it's usually okay to photograph people. If they object however, you need to stop. If you're not sure, it never hurts to ask permission before hand. Your subject may want to pose, so explain what you saw them doing and ask them to continue as if you weren't there.

Experiment! Sometimes the artistic expression of a candid photo can be limited by you; the photographer. Try different angles, places and scenes. Look at candid photos created by others (they can be found in lots of magazines) for inspiration.

Candid photography is a great way to add some artistic flare to your photos without spending a lot of time with the technical aspects of photography.

Which File Format Is Best?
Digital Photography Bonus Secretby David Peterson
-->Most modern digital cameras give you a choice of file formats when saving your image. It's very helpful to know the benefits (and disadvantages) of each file format so you can make the best decision on the file format to save your images in.
Why do we need file formats?A standard photo taken with a 4.3 megapixel camera has 4.3 million little pixels, or pieces of information, that comprise the image. Each of those pieces needs to store a red, green and blue color value so the color of the pixel can be recreated by a computer or printer. Each color value records the strength of that color on a scale from 1 to 256.
This is a lot of information! Each pixel needs three bytes to store the three color values, and there are 4.3 million pixels. 4.3 million times 3 is around 13 million bytes, or 13 Megabytes.
If each image took 13 Megabytes of storage, you'd run out of space pretty quickly on your memory card! So the file formats used to save images compress the image down to a smaller, more manageable, size.

JPEGThe JPEG, or JPG format was invented to help make image sizes more manageable. JPEG is the most popular format used in digital cameras today because it's a simple and versatile format, and is supported by all image related software.
JPEG works by compressing the image to a much smaller size at the expense of some image quality. Normally you won't see any difference because the JPEG format looks at the image and removes only the information that it can recreate by looking at adjacent pixels when the image is displayed again.

You can specify the amount of compression with JPEG images. Your camera will usually have a quality setting - low, medium or high. Low quality increases the JPEG compression, and although your images will be smaller, they won't look at good.

Uncompressed TIFFTIFF is another file format popular because while it still compresses the image, it does so in a way to ensure that the full image can always be restored. There's no loss of image quality. It works in the same way as ZIP files on a computer. They are compressed, but you can always get the original file back.

RAWImages stored in RAW format are exactly what the camera 'sees'. There is no processing done by the camera before the image is saved. This is one of the major advantages of RAW.
Remember when I said above that each color value strength is stored on a scale from 1 to 256? Modern cameras can actually detect more than 256 levels of strength. But since the TIFF and JPEG formats don't allow more than that number, the camera throws the extra information away. The RAW format saves these extra strength levels resulting in a better image with more contrast levels.

There's another advantage - the camera doesn't correct for exposure or white balance before it saves in RAW format. Meaning you have ultimate control in manipulating the image in a paint program - so your image looks exactly how you want it to look.
All these advantages come at a cost. RAW images don't use any compression so they are large files and take a long time to store and copy. Also, there is no single RAW standard for all cameras, so you usually will need to use your camera manufacturer's software to read the RAW file.

Which format should I use?While TIFF and RAW do give you superior images, I personally don't think the hassle of much larger file sizes are worth it unless you have a really high end camera and need to produce really large prints. Not only do the images take longer to save, but you need to purchase larger (and more expensive) memory cards; a larger hard drive; and more CDs to back up to.

The JPEG format is the most popular - and it's not hard to see why. It provides a much smaller image size without losing a lot of quality. I recommend using the JPEG format set to high image quality on your own camera.